Just an hour and a half from Madrid, in the Segovian town of Coca, stands one of the most original and monumental fortresses in Spain: the Castle of Coca. Considered the great jewel of the Castilian Gothic-Mudejar style, its reddish brick silhouette and geometric shapes make it a work worthy of any historical blockbuster, far from the big tourist circuits and full of surprising episodes in its long past.
The history of Coca Castle dates back to 1453, when Alonso de Fonseca, archbishop of Seville, obtained authorization from King Juan II of Castile for its construction. The work, directed by the Muslim master Alí Caro, took several decades to complete and from the beginning stood out both for its imposing moat and defensive system and for its palatial luxury and Mudejar decoration, visible in stucco, plasterwork and coffered ceilings that still amaze visitors today. Unlike most fortresses, it is not located on a hill but between the escarpments of the Voltoya River, taking advantage of the terrain as a natural element of defense.
The enclosure stands out for its huge keep, the Mudejar courtyard, the halls decorated with geometric motifs and the crenellated walls, authentic works of art in brick that made the castle famous already during the life of the Fonseca family and later as a stately and palatial residence. This environment was the scene of amorous intrigues, courtly parties and even famous prisons, such as that of the Duke of Medina Sidonia in the seventeenth century, and resisted sieges during the War of the Communities and the Napoleonic invasion.
Property of the House of Alba and scene of abandonment and rebirth.
By inheritance and marriage alliances, the castle became the property of the House of Alba, who maintained it until the 20th century. From the 18th century onwards, it fell into decadence due to lack of use and care, and during the French invasion and the 19th century it was looted and sold in pieces, losing coats of arms, tiles and original plasterwork. However, in 1928 it was declared a National Historic Monument and, after decades of ruin, in 1954 the House of Alba ceded it to the State, allowing its complete restoration and its current use as the School of Forestry Foremen, a national reference institution still located inside the castle.
Currently open to the public, the Coca Castle can be visited in its entirety, from its basement and courtyards to the panoramic terraces and the impressive keep. Guided tours (tel. 617 573 554) allow visitors to learn about its history of intrigue and legends, from the romantic tragedy of the Marquis of Cenete to the resistance against the Comuneros, as well as the details of its construction and restoration. The surroundings of Coca, with its Roman wall, the tower of San Nicolás and the medieval style bridge, complete an excursion.
Coca Castle remains, six centuries later, a fortress worthy of a fairy tale and a symbol of the legendary Castile, witness to the power of nobles, cardinals and lords, and today, an essential destination to discover the richness and fantasy of the Gothic-Mudejar style on the plateau.