You could say it’s been a long time coming, but the authentic alternative to what has come to be known as brunch is finally here. The Valencian custom of taking a mid-morning break to enjoy a hearty lunch has found its own home in Madrid. Bar Mistela Chamartín, located at 5 Manuel de Falla Street , faithfully recreates the traditional “esmorzaret,” a meal originally intended for farmworkers who began their day at dawn.
Chef Néstor Vaccaro explains that this tradition from the Levantine coast stems from the need to regain strength. Unlike the usual light options, this mid-morning meal is designed for those who, having gotten up at five in the morning, feel genuinely hungry around ten. In modern practice, it’s presented as a traditional alternative featuring generous portions, as opposed to the brunch concept.
Classic sandwiches and generous portions
The menu for this mid-morning meal begins with classic bar-style appetizers. Initial options include the traditional gilda, served for 3.50 euros, and generous portions of Russian salad for 8.50 euros, served on a crispy base.
The heart of the “esmorzaret” lies in the sandwiches. The restaurant serves the Top Mussafes (8.90 euros), a classic from the Valencian Community that combines grilled sobrasada, ham, cheese, and spring onions. Another specialty is the Americano sandwich (8.90 euros), which features bell peppers, bacon, a fried egg, and French fries all layered inside—a dish designed to satisfy even the most demanding appetite.
To round out this lunch, the restaurant lives up to its name by serving Mistela, a sweet, artisanal wine widely enjoyed in Valencian homes but less common in Madrid’s dining scene. The drink is freshly flavored with a touch of natural orange zest.