Gilda is not only the name of the female character who conquered entire movie theaters in the 1940s. It is also one of the most characteristic pintxos of Basque gastronomy, which received its famous nickname in honor of the performance of Rita Hayworth. Like the actress, or so they said back then, gildas are salty and spicy (as well as expensive).
In the capital, it is increasingly difficult to find this typical northern appetizer for less than two euros a piece. That said: there are still places that maintain reasonable prices for this unmistakable tapa. One example is Variantes Marga, located inside the Mercado de la Cebada(La Latina).
Three generations of Marga Variants
.
Variantes Marga has not always been a pickles and sweets stall. Right after the opening of the Mercado de la Cebada it was the fruit shop of Paca, the first woman of three generations to run the store. In 1991 it became the sweet and pickle store we know today: Marga, Paca’s daughter, turned the business around and even gave it her own name.
Ana, Marga’s daughter, kept the essence of the variant stall that today is managed by Manuel López Suárez. “I have picked up the baton from this generation of merchants to prevent places as genuine as this from being lost,” the merchant explains to Madrid Secreto.
The best snacks at the stall
.
Pickled tuna, olives, anchovies, anchovies in vinegar, smoked sardines, different types of vegetables and homemade desserts, among other national products, coexist in this puesto de estilo castizo. Its olives, brought from Campo Real, are the stars of the place. They are used to make the gildas that are causing a sensation on social networks.
The traditional anchovy, piparra and olive gilda is the favorite of the local regulars. It is followed by two sea-flavored variants: the triple anchovy and the Spanish octopus. Some of the reinventions of the appetizer, such as gilda with braised artichoke or jerky, are also enjoying some success.
The gildas of Variantes Marga are not only attractive for their exquisite ingredients, but also for their prices. Depending on the weight, the unit can cost between 1,40€ and 3€ (although most of them are under 2€). A kilo of them does not exceed 50 €, a very competitive cost considering their quality.