Right in the area where the Retiro becomes the perfect excuse and the boulevard an iconic walkway, KultO celebrates a decade of life with the aplomb of those who have been able to evolve without losing their soul. And what is more important in a city with the hotel and catering turnover of Madrid: KultO has been able to maintain itself.
What began as a tribute to tuna from Cadiz -with the Madrid chef José Fuentes at the helm- has evolved into a space for creative cuisine with a southern accent, but with a Madrid vocation. And in its menu, among ceviches, grilled and salted fish, there is a snack that has transcended the offer and has become a myth: the pepito de KultO.
The pepito that seduces chefs like Dabiz Muñoz.
Seemingly simple, the KultO pepito hides a millimetric balance of flavors. A thin slice of matured blond cow, glass bread, habanero tatemado, green peppers and payoyo cheese. Nothing more, nothing less. It is juicy, elegant, addictive. According to what they say in the dining room, it is one of the favorites of Dabiz Muñoz, who eventually visits the restaurant. And it is not hard to imagine: there is something in its contained audacity that brings it closer to a gesture of haute cuisine than to a simple sandwich.
An ear that looks like a torrezno
Another surprise on the menu is the fried ear, a traditional dish taken to another terrain. Here there is no griddle or muddiness, but crunchy, dry sticks, almost like fine torreznos, accompanied by habanero bravas sauces that elevate the whole. The choice is risky but it works. It is a dish that breaks the mold, more aesthetic, more intended for all audiences -even for those who impulsively renounce casquería.
The dish arrives in a striking dishware, like almost everything at KultO, where the chef’s pictorial inspiration is also transferred to the plating. José Fuentes, who cultivates his love for painting, seems to compose each dish like a canvas: there is color, there is volume, there is balance. This aesthetic, far from being a mere artifice, responds to a sensory logic that completes the experience -with apologies for the use of this last word.
A restaurant with a Cadiz soul and a contemporary look.
KultO was born in 2015 with the vocation of a southern tavern, but over the years it has been expanding its horizon. Tuna is still present, of course -the one from Barbate, treated with care and creativity-, but it has gained weight the vegetable garden, rice dishes and a repertoire of dishes that change with the season. All under the same common thread: the product cuisine.
The space also accompanies. A lively bar, high tables, a terrace overlooking the Retiro that fills up every evening, and a dining room on the upper floor for those seeking more calm. The dining room is agile, well-informed, and handles with ease a wine list focused on Andalusian fortified wines -with an excellent representation of manzanillas- and a cocktail bar that is brief but with personality.
KultO is not the latest trendy newcomer, but perhaps that is why it is so valuable. It has been doing things right for ten years. It is one of those restaurants that have found their place in the city without fuss, growing consistently, consolidating a loyal clientele and adding small touches of genius. Like its pepito.