Madrid and its beautiful churches is a topic. We have the ‘Madrid Sistine Chapel’ (whether it looks like it or not depends on taste) in Malasaña, the chapel of San Antonio de la Florida with frescoes by Goya in Principe Pio and other lesser known treasures but definitely worth visiting, as is the case with the Pontifical Basilica of San Miguel. A jewel of the Baroque located in the heart of the city, in the street of San Justo in Madrid de los Austrias with many curious facts, a unique architecture and a history (very juicy) behind.
In addition to a wide cultural program ranging from festivals to live musical experiences. This is the case of the famous Candlelight concert series, which from this September will cover the Pontifical Basilica of San Miguel with thousands of candles and a classical program with works by Mozart, Bach and Vivaldi.
A bit of history about the Pontifical Basilica of St. Michael
Isabel de Farnesio did not want her son (the youngest, the sixth, the one who was brother of Carlos III) to be far from home, and what Don Luis de Borbón wanted was not to be a priest. But he was an infant, he was quite far from the line of succession and the normal thing in those cases was to make an ecclesiastical career. Later we would know that Don Luis de Borbón had a vocation for everything but being a priest, but that is another story.
When he was only eight years old, the prince was named archbishop of Toledo and cardinal, and a little later he would also become archbishop of Seville. Although Toledo is not far from Madrid, the queen wanted to make sure that her son remained at the Madrid court. So in 1739 Isabel de Farnesio had what would eventually become the Royal Basilica of San Miguel, also known as the Royal Basilica of San Miguel, built for him. A temple that was completed in 1746 and today is part of the very extensive heritage of the city.
What to do in the Pontifical Basilica of San Miguel
If its historical context had jarana, its current context has nothing to envy. The Pontifical Basilica of St. Michael has many cultural events, such as its monthly cineforum sessions. But its acoustics designed for sacred music means that most of its programmed events are mainly musical.
The International Festival of Sacred Art (FIAS) or the recitals with the Great Organ of the Basilica are examples of this, in addition to the famous Candlelight concerts that will take place starting this September. Candlelight evenings where a string quartet performs pieces with tributes to composers from Mozart to Bach.
5 curious facts about the Pontifical Basilica of San Michele
1. It has diplomatic immunity
Since 1892, the Pontifical Basilica of St. Michael has been the property of the Holy See and is attached to the Apostolic Nunciature in Spain (the Vatican’s diplomatic representation in Spain). This means that, for legal and administrative purposes, both the building and its grounds have diplomatic immunity.
And what does this mean? That the Spanish authorities cannot intervene in the basilica without the express consent of the Holy See, which has meant that its original architectural and decorative design has been maintained over time.
2. It has been declared an Asset of Cultural Interest
Located in a zone of archaeological protection within the historical Madrid -the historical complex “Recinto Villa de Madrid”-, the Royal Basilica of San Miguel was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest (BIC) in 1984 with the category of National Historic-Artistic Monument. A title that gives the building the highest level of protection with the objective of ensuring its conservation for future generations.
3. Its façade is unique in the Spanish Baroque style.
Starting because it is on a corner and seems to be wedged between the street of San Justo and the passage of Puñonrostro. A curved pediment full of concave and convex movements that has two turrets with rounded tops and that makes it a special case of Spanish Baroque.
It is also considered the most Italian-influenced Baroque church in Madrid, whose plans were commissioned to the Italian architect Giacomo Bonavia, who had already worked on other royal commissions. A name that Isabel de Farnesio herself chose personally and who had Virgilio Rabaglio as a disciple.
4. Mussolini did not want Luigi Boccherini to rest there
The famous Italian composer Luigi Boccherini lived and died in Madrid. And as he had been a parishioner of the Royal Basilica of San Miguel he was buried there after his death. But after 120 years, this situation changed in 1927 when Benito Mussolini ordered that his remains be transferred to the pantheon of the illustrious sons of Lucca as part of his desire to reinforce the national identity, highlighting the figure of great Italians.
5. “He who does not pass through the Calle de la Pasa does not get married”.
Who doesn’t like a good saying as an excuse to get to know the city a little better? Very close to the basilica is Via della Pasa. And since the seat of the archbishopric was there and civil marriage did not yet exist, the bride and groom had to pass through that street to arrange the papers to get married. A situation that gave rise to the famous Madrilenian saying: “Quien no pasa por la calle de la Pasa no se casa” (He who does not pass through Raisin Street does not get married).
Where is the Royal Basilica of San Miguel and how to get there?
Located in the historic center of the city, the Royal Basilica of San Miguel is located in the emblematic neighborhood of Madrid de los Austrias, very close to the Plaza Mayor and the Royal Palace, on Calle de San Justo, 4.
Being in such a central location, there are many options to get there by public transport. By metro at La Latina (L5), Ópera (L2 and L5) and Sol (L1, L2 and L3) stops; by several bus lines such as 3, 17, 18 and 148; or just a few minutes walk from the Plaza Mayor.
What are the opening hours of the Royal Basilica of San Miguel?
The opening hours of the Basilica of San Miguel vary according to the season. During the winter schedule (from September 29 to June 30) the temple is open from Monday to Saturday from 9:45 to 13:15 and from 17:30 to 21:15, and Sundays and holidays from 9:45 to 14:15 and from 18:00 to 21:15.
While during the summer schedule (from July 1st to September 28th) the opening hours are from Monday to Saturday from 9:45 to 13:00 and from 18:00 to 21:15, and Sundays and holidays from 9:45 to 13:30 and from 18:30 to 21:15.
Who built the Royal Basilica of St. Michael?
Giacomo Bonavía was the architect who created the plans for the construction of the Royal Basilica of St. Michael in 1739, but from 1743 it was his disciple Virgilio Rabaglio who carried out its construction and final decoration.
Nearby points of interest in Madrid
Being in the center of Madrid, the Royal Basilica of St. Michael is very close to several points of interest: the Plaza Mayor less than 5 minutes walk from the basilica, the Retiro Park or Las Vistillas, very popular during the August festivities in Madrid.
Close to the Pontifical Basilica of San Miguel are also other hidden gems of the capital that are also covered with live music and thousands of candles on specific days with Candlelight.


