You probably walked past it without realizing it. Or maybe you did but it was more of a “Go look, another church in Madrid” and move on. And although it may seem that way at first glance, the Real Basílica de San Miguel is a jewel of Italian Baroque located in the heart of the city, on Calle de San Justo in Madrid de los Austrias. A historical and architectural treasure that may go unnoticed but hides many curious facts (and a very juicy history) behind.
Art, royal drama (“royal” of royalty, not that the drama is true, although both apply) and lots of music. And not just in its history. Also in its present and its future, since this central church is the new stage that the famous concert series Candlelight has chosen in Madrid to cover with candles and live music. An experience that will be possible to live from September.
Royal Basilica of San Miguel: when the brother of a king did not want to be a priest
Isabel de Farnesio did not want her son (the youngest, the sixth, the one who was the brother of Carlos III) to be far from home, and what Don Luis de Borbón wanted was not to be a priest. But he was an infant, he was quite far from the line of succession and the normal thing in those cases was to make an ecclesiastical career. Later we would know that Don Luis de Borbón had a vocation for everything but being a priest, but that is another story.
When he was only eight years old, the prince was named archbishop of Toledo and cardinal, and a little later he would also become archbishop of Seville. Toledo was (and is) not far from Madrid, but the queen wanted to make sure that her son stayed in the Madrid court. So in 1739 Isabel de Farnesio had what would eventually become the Royal Basilica of San Miguel, also known as the Pontifical Basilica of San Miguel, built for him. A temple that was completed in 1746 and today is part of the (very large) heritage of the city.
6 curious facts about the Royal Basilica of San Miguel
1. It has diplomatic immunity
Since 1892, the Pontifical Basilica of San Miguel is property of the Holy See and is attached to the Apostolic Nunciature in Spain (the diplomatic representation of the Vatican in Spain). This means that, for legal and administrative purposes, both the building and its grounds have diplomatic immunity.
And what does this mean? That the Spanish authorities cannot intervene in the basilica without the express consent of the Holy See, which has meant that its original architectural and decorative design has been maintained over time.
2. It has been declared an Asset of Cultural Interest
Located in a zone of archaeological protection within the historical Madrid -the historical complex “Recinto Villa de Madrid”-, the Royal Basilica of San Miguel was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest (BIC) in 1984 with the category of National Historic-Artistic Monument. A title that gives the building the highest level of protection with the objective of ensuring its conservation for future generations.
3. It is the stage for candlelight concerts.
Its acoustics were designed for sacred music so it may not be too surprising that the church’s own religious functions are joined by cultural ones. From premieres to festivals through concerts of ancient and classical music, the Royal Basilica of St. Michael is also the scene of the famous Candlelight concerts. A musical event in which a string quartet performs classics under the light of thousands of candles and makes the basilica a meeting point between culture and art.
4. Its facade is unique in the Spanish Baroque
Starting because it is on a corner and seems wedged between the street of San Justo and the passage of Puñonrostro. A curved pediment full of concave and convex movements that has two turrets with rounded tops and that makes it a special case of Spanish Baroque.
It is also considered the most Italian-influenced Baroque church in Madrid, whose plans were commissioned to the Italian architect Giacomo Bonavia, who had already worked on other royal commissions. A name that Isabel de Farnesio herself chose personally and who had Virgilio Rabaglio as a disciple.
5. Mussolini did not want Luigi Boccherini to rest there
The famous Italian composer Luigi Boccherini lived and died in Madrid. And as he had been a parishioner of the Royal Basilica of San Miguel he was buried there after his death. But after 120 years, this situation changed in 1927 when Benito Mussolini ordered that his remains be transferred to the pantheon of the illustrious sons of Lucca as part of his desire to reinforce the national identity, highlighting the figure of great Italians.
6. “He who does not pass through the Calle de la Pasa does not get married”.
Who doesn’t like a good saying as an excuse to get to know the city a little better? Very close to the basilica is Via della Pasa. And as the seat of the archbishopric was there and civil marriage did not yet exist, the bride and groom had to pass through that street to arrange the papers to get married. A situation that gave rise to the famous Madrilenian saying: “Quien no pasa por la calle de la Pasa no se casa” (He who does not pass through Raisin Street does not get married).