You don’t have to look twice at the name of the restaurant to know which is the star at MYO Hand Roll Bar, the new gastronomic opening in the Chamberí district. Here, the hand roll is much more than an imported trend: it is a statement of intent. In a space that borrows the Japanese temaki format, but imbues it with the social spirit of the Mediterranean bar, each bite seeks a balance between technique, product and flavor.
It has only been open for a few weeks, but the MYO bar already bears the signature of chef Álvar Fernández, former sous chef at Ugo Chan, which Dabiz Muñoz said was one of his favorite restaurants in Madrid. Fernández transfers part of the omakase philosophy to a more casual format, without losing an ounce of exigency. The result is bites that can be eaten with the hand and taste like haute cuisine with an average ticket of around €50.
The hand roll as a firm bet
At the bar – crossed by the agile rhythm of the itamae and the constant murmur of the diners – the protagonist is always the same: crispy nori seaweed, which sustains a succession of combinations as unexpected as they are harmonious. And among all of them, two deserve special mention for shining with their own light: the sea bass hand roll with beef fat and the tuna with tomato and regañás, a snack that puts one foot in Japan and the other in Seville.
Beyond seaweed: starters, cocktails and decoration
The menu kicks off with starters that are somewhat sparse in quantity and perhaps require some additional rolling. The sea bass usuzukuri, for example, suffers from an excess of olive oil and the egg stuffed with ventresca is more like a traditional Spanish dish than a fusion of two countries.
The udon carbonara – which is actually a thinner noodle than udon and not exactly carbonara because it has tuna instead of guanciale – is one of those oddities that works. Very well calibrated, it is surely the most worthwhile starter.
The space goes with it. Designed by Plutarco studio, MYO plays with changing lights, industrial materials and a bar that functions as a stage. During the day, it is an agile and luminous place. At night, it gains in intensity, with louder music and a cocktail bar on tap – signed by Diego Cabrera – that introduces references such as the Matcha Mule or grapefruit sake, unmissable sips that go perfectly with the rolls.
MYO and the hand roll fever in Madrid
MYO does not arrive alone. In recent months, Madrid has seen how hand roll bars have multiplied throughout the city: from the affordable proposal of Chiru in Chueca to the minimalist bar of Umiko near Sol, through the pioneers like Akiro or the consolidation of Kaito. But MYO stands out for finding its own voice amidst the noise: one that combines Japanese precision, local references and a space designed for shared enjoyment.
It is not a restaurant for occasional visits, but it is one to which you want to return to see how the menu evolves, what changes are added to the starters, what new hand rolls are incorporated or simply repeat that sea bass that, hopefully, will still be on the bar.