In Berlin there is a kebab that generates queues as if they were giving away the product they sell. It is called Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap and is, according to many, the best doner in the world. This is not a gastronomic exaggeration, but a cultural phenomenon that mixes street food, unusual quality and urban identity.
Now imagine the following: that same spirit has landed in Madrid. In Arganzuela, specifically at number 4 Paseo de Santa María de la Cabeza. It’s called CULTO Kebab and it’s more than just a hipster kebab: it’s a manifesto with Harissa sauce.
Behind it are Carlos Bautista and Enrique Pérez, founders of the concept, and in the kitchen, two heavyweights: Oswaldo and Bruno González Herce, chefs at the helm of Los 33 and Llama Inn, respectively. And yes, they have set up a doner place with a level of detail and respect for the product worthy of any signature restaurant. Something similar to what Mómö has been doing, inviting Michelin stars to prepare their recipes for them.
The döners of CULTO Kebab
There are no shortcuts here. Each beef and chicken horn is assembled daily, the vegetables are prepared on the spot, and everything is cooked with extra virgin olive oil. The base can be classic doner or bowl, and from there, the nuances begin.
Among the options, you can combine meat or falafel, grilled vegetables, fresh lettuce, tomato, red onion and a citric touch of sumac. The trio of sauces is one of CULT’s biggest selling points: Kräuter (yogurt and fresh herbs), Tahini (sesame cream, garlic and lemon) and the aforementioned Harissa, a spicy bomb from North Africa.
The winning combo includes doner, potatoes and drink for 14.9 euros, but you can tune it to your liking: add babaganoush, feta cheese, more meat or ask for some potatoes with parmesan and sumac. There is also cheesecake. The space is not big, but the proposal -it could be said- is. A precise, honest and uncompromising menu.