Madrid once again smells of coal, steam, and old railroad ties. After several months of track work, the historic Arganda del Rey Railway kicks off its spring season on March 29, bringing back the region’s only operational steam train—a little gem on rails that combines stunning scenery, railway nostalgia, and the history of kings and counts—at prices starting at 3 euros.
Popularly known as the “Arganda Train, which whistles more than it goes,” it is today the only historic steam-powered railway operating in the Community of Madrid and one of just five still in operation throughout Spain. With 140 years of history behind it, this train was for decades a vital means of transportation for the towns in southeastern Madrid, to the point of being immortalized in the popular couplet that can still be heard today at the foot of the platform.
After a technical hiatus to renovate part of the track, the train is back in service thanks to the work of the Madrid Steam Railway Initiatives Center (CIFVM), a nonprofit association that has spent years restoring historic locomotives, cars, and railcars, and that keeps the spirit of that 19th-century railway alive through countless hours of volunteer work.
A train once used by kings and politicians
The Madrid–Arganda line was inaugurated in 1886 with a length of 27 kilometers, but over time it grew to 161 kilometers and 27 stations, stretching from the Niño Jesús station in Madrid to Alocén in Guadalajara. For much of the 20th century, it served as a true lifeline for the towns and travelers in the area.
Its wooden cars and period salons were once graced by such prominent figures as the Count of Romanones, who chaired the railway’s board of directors between 1915 and 1923. It is said that the politician frequently invited Alfonso XIII to travel with him in the Salon car, turning that modest train into a small rolling salon of power and intrigue. Today, boarding the train is like stepping into that history, but in the form of a weekend getaway.
The route: bridges, cliffs, and a lagoon
The currently preserved section is about 3.5 kilometers long and departs from La Poveda Station in Arganda del Rey. The train starts slowly, at an average speed of about 15 km/h—enough time to hear the locomotive puffing, watch the fireman stoking the boiler, and notice how the landscape changes.
Within a few minutes, the train reaches one of its highlights: the metal bridge over the Jarama River, 175 meters of iron that make up the longest preserved historic railway bridge in the entire Community of Madrid. From the windows, the river is visible from a bird’s-eye view as the train rattles across the structure, a scene that looks like something out of an old movie.
After crossing the Jarama River, the train travels along the base of the Cantiles del Piúl, rock formations with an almost cinematic appearance reminiscent of canyons in the Wild West. The dry, rugged landscape contrasts with the green of the river and reinforces that sense of traveling to another world without leaving the region. The journey ends at the Laguna del Campillo stop, a wetland that serves as a refuge for flora and fauna and makes this the perfect nature getaway to bring binoculars and a camera. The total duration of the trip (round trip) is about 45 minutes.
Trades from another era, century-old railcars
One of the charms of the Arganda Railway is that it doesn’t just transport people; it recreates an entire railway world that has all but disappeared. The locomotives and cars are century-old pieces restored by the CIFVM itself, and on board there are not only engineers; there are also firemen stoking the boiler, brakemen monitoring the train’s safety, conductors checking tickets, and stationmasters signaling the train’s departure with a flag and whistle.
The result is a kind of living museum: passengers see how a steam locomotive is fired up, how the brakes are operated, and how traffic is managed on a historic line.
Prices and train options: from the full trip to the 3-euro shuttle
The spring season kicks off on March 29 with two main options:
- Historic Train
This is the full round-trip route by steam locomotive, from La Poveda to Laguna del Campillo and back. It costs 10 euros and is the “classic” experience: steam, a bridge, cliffs, and a lagoon all in one ticket. - Shuttle Train
This is a shorter route, designed primarily for those who want to combine the trip with a visit to the project’s exhibition hall. This option includes access to a large modular layout of working miniature trains, a delight for model railroad enthusiasts and curious visitors of all ages. The price for this shuttle is just 3 euros.
You can purchase tickets at the following link.
Behind every trip lie hours in the workshop, discreet repairs, new fasteners, replaced ties, and a handful of people who believe that the best way to preserve this type of train is to keep them running. Riding the Arganda Train, in addition to being a leisure activity, is also a way to support that collective effort.