The best torrija in Spain is not eaten in a large restaurant, but in a tiny workshop in the Chamberí neighborhood. Martín Martínez Villamor, a chef trained at establishments such as Celler de Can Roca, Noor, and Hortensio, has been crowned the winner of the first contest for the best torrija in Spain held at Madrid Fusión thanks to his more classic than modern approach. He does so from Villaroy’s, a micro-restaurant on Calle Maudes that has become a temple of battered and fried foods, potato omelets, and, of course, torrijas.
Martín arrived at this small restaurant in Chamberí in 2019, tired of haute cuisine and with the idea of working with popular products using refined techniques. By 2023, he had already won the title for the best torrija in the Community of Madrid, but the leap to Madrid Fusión and the national award confirms that even from a tiny space, it is possible to set the standard for what the perfect torrija is today. The secret to success, he says, is to respect tradition and focus on flavor and texture rather than spectacle.
The formula for the best torrija in Spain
Far from the versions with brioche, fillings, or crunchy toppings, the winning torrija is based on a traditional recipe with small technical nuances. The base is milk bread, which is softer and juicier than regular bread, soaked in a hot infusion of milk and cream and then left to rest slowly in the cold so that the inside is evenly hydrated. Then, the batter is the same as always: dip in egg and fry until it is an appetizing golden brown and has a creamy texture inside, without any fuss or artifice.