The scene could easily be that of a period garden in a Shonda Rhimes series: geometric terraces, marble sculptures, fountains, staircases, and, above all, pergolas and walls covered in blooming wisteria. But there’s no need to travel back in time or to England—this garden is in Fuencarral-El Pardo, a twenty-minute drive from downtown Madrid . The gardens of theQuinta del Duque del Arco are an almost secret Baroque oasis that is currently in full bloom… and admission is free.
The Quinta del Duque del Arco is part of the Royal Site of El Pardo and is one of the finest examples of an aristocratic country house from the 17th and 18th centuries in Spain. The estate was established in 1717, when Alonso Manrique de Lara y Silva, the first Duke of Arco and chief equerry to Philip V, purchased the former Valrodrigo estate and commissioned the construction of a small palace inspired by La Zarzuela. Shortly thereafter, the complex’s centerpiece was designed: a terraced Baroque garden spanning over 10,000 square meters, featuring clipped flowerbeds, sculptures, fountains, a pond, a small waterfall, and sweeping green vistas that blend French, Italian, and Spanish influences.
Today, this historic garden— declared a National Monument in 1935 —has become one of the most special springtime attractions in the Community of Madrid. Every year, for a few weeks, climbing wisteria envelops balustrades, pergolas, and stone walls with clusters of violet and mauve flowers, creating tunnels and curtains of foliage over benches and paths.
The wisteria of El Pardo
As with all great botanical spectacles, the window to see it at its best is short. Full bloom usually occurs between late March and the first half of April, and can be extended or shortened depending on the cold, rain, or early heat. That means that if you want to see the wisteria embracing the terraces, fountains, and sculptures of the Quinta del Duque del Arco, you have just a few days to plan your getaway before the flowers begin to fall and give way to the intense green of the leaves.
The experience is also surprisingly accessible. Thegardens are open to the public free of charge, although the mansion is used only for events and is not open for regular visits; access is through the Puerta de Madrid, on the road leading up to El Pardo, with hours managed by National Heritage. The walk, which takes just under an hour if taken at a leisurely pace, winds through the four large terraces connected by stairs and ramps, passes by fountains, a small waterfall, and a pond with a grotto, and also allows visitors to enjoy monumental trees such as the large conifers and redwoods that tower over the Baroque landscape.
