Tradition says that the custom of eating donuts during the San Isidro festivities is due to Aunt Javiera, a 19th century baker who was probably from Fuenlabrada and who became popular because of how delicious her cakes were.
The classic ones are the foolish, ready, St. Clare or French ones, but for the last two years there has been a new one, the Holy Year or San Isidro, which is covered with chocolate.
In case you confuse one with the other, it is time to start distinguishing them. The tontas are unadorned, hence their name, to refer to the simplicity of their recipe, which dates back to the Middle Ages. The ready ones are bathed in a glaze prepared with lemon juice, beaten egg and sugar, although sometimes some coloring is added to obtain different combinations. St. Clare’s cakes, which were first made in the Visitation Monastery, are covered with a white dry meringue frosting. And finally, the French ones, which Queen Bárbara de Braganza did not like any of them, so a French cook added chopped almonds with sugar on top.
This year, in addition, some pastry shops have joined the initiative of Madrid Dulce, Siempre seremos pequeños, to create doughnuts specifically designed for children with some not so orthodox ingredients.
1. La Mallorquina
La Mallorquina is the first stop when it comes to tradition and pastries in Madrid. They have been preparing San Isidro doughnuts in all their versions for more than a century and their size is somewhat larger than those usually sold in other establishments. This year they have added the chocolate doughnut to join Siempre seremos pequeños.
📍 Calle Mayor, 2 (Sol); Calle Velázquez, 39 (Salamanca); Calle de Arapiles, 1 (Chamberí) and Avenida de Europa, 13 (Moraleja Green Shopping Center).
2. Casa Mira
Casa Mira is where Madrileños have been buying turrón since 1842. But they also sell a wide variety of traditional and artisanal pastries, and that means that when May approaches, roscas del santo are also part of their menu. The special donut for 2024 is white chocolate, raspberry and Petazetas.
📍 Carrera de San Jerónimo, 30 (Sol)
3. Viena Capellanes
At Viena Capellanes the doughnuts have been prepared exactly the same way since the day they opened their doors, although their size is somewhat smaller. During this time, they usually have a breakfast or snack option that includes three doughnuts (to choose between silly, ready, Santa Clara or French) and a coffee or tea. You can also buy them in packs of 16 or 24 units.
4. El Riojano Confectionery
Queen María Cristina of Habsburg’s pastry chef began to prepare El Riojano’ s doughnuts in 1855. Today we are lucky that their products are not exclusive to royalty and among them are their doughnuts, which you can buy to take away or take in the small cafeteria with which the confectionery has. Their novel bet for this San Isidro 2024 is a lollipop-flavored doughnut.
📍 Calle Mayor, 10 (Sol)
5. San Onofre Oven
Horno de San Onofre has been sweetening the lives of Madrilenians since 1972; its key is to choose the product well: cane sugar, marcona almonds from Alicante and to stay as far away as possible from the industrial flavor.
📍 Calle de San Onofre, 3 (Chueca)
6. Manacor
Since mid-April in Manacor they have all types of San Isidro doughnuts in production in their ovens to supply the eight bakeries they have spread throughout Madrid. Since last year, in addition to the traditional, smart, silly, French and Santa Clara doughnuts, the San Isidro or Holy Year doughnut, which is covered with chocolate, has been added.
7. Mifer
At Mifer you can find exquisite and classic pastas del té all year round, but when the sun starts to shine in the city, the rosquillas de San Isidro take the revenge. They have their own bakery on the premises, and you can feel the freshness and freshly baked everything they serve.
📍 Virgen del Coro Street, 15 (Quintana)
7. La Duquesita
La Duquesita is also a sweet institution in Madrid and as such, San Isidro doughnuts could not be missing from their menu. Every year, in addition to the classic ones, they bring out a special edition with a unique recipe that is part of Madrid Dulce’s initiative to bring this dessert closer to children. This time it has hazelnut, Gianduja chocolate and wafer, and is topped with raspberry and apricot.
📍 Calle de Fernando VI, 2 (Salesas)
8. VAIT
The pastry shop VAIT has been selling gourmet products in Madrid for more than 30 years. The San Isidro doughnuts, especially the lemon ones, stand out among its wide variety of handmade desserts. Their juicy texture leaves no one indifferent.
📍Arturo Soria Plaza (Arturo Soria, 126)