The recent declaration of Madrid’s cocido as an Asset of Cultural Interest (BIC) in the Intangible Heritage category recognizes this dish nationally as a fundamental expression of our identity. But its presence does not end where our borders do: while someone in Madrid is enjoying a bowl, in New York there may be another person doing the same at Bartolo, a restaurant in the West Village that serves it, even respecting the turns.
In fact, Rob Martinez (@robmartinez), a content creator focused on “stories about people and food,” was that person and posted a video about it, showing how this Madrid dish is prepared more than 5,000 kilometers away from its place of origin.
The truth is that, at least to the eye—and given the impossibility of comparing the taste of one and the other—the cocido at Bartolo (310 W. 4th St., New York) is very similar to what we might find here. Not surprisingly, Ryan Bartlow, the chef, spent years cooking in Spain, and “this dish is a love letter to Madrid, “ according to Martinez.
His recipe includes everything that could be included in one made here, from chickpeas and vegetables to meat—it is served with blood sausage, chorizo, and butifarra sausage made on site. And they are familiar with the concept of “vuelcos”: in the first course, they serve the broth with noodles, and in the next, the rest of the ingredients.
A restaurant recommended by the Michelin Guide
Cocido is not the only dish from our cuisine served at Bartolo. In fact, Spanish cuisine is the star of the menu: there are pintxos, gildas, torreznos, Iberian ham, fried eggs with potatoes and prawns, and Madrid-style tripe.
The restaurant has also been recognized by the prestigious Michelin Guide, which recommends everything from starters—crispbread spread with butter and topped with anchovies or white garlic with melon sorbet—to more substantial dishes—grilled Iberian pork, oxtail stewed in red wine, and roast suckling pig and lamb.