In New York they have the bagel, in Paris the crepe and in Madrid we are devotees of the calamari sandwich. It has as many detractors as tourists queuing up to eat one around the Plaza Mayor.
It seems that the cocido madrileño and the callos make more sense within the local gastronomy, they are a must of the capital’s winter. But the origin and popularity of the bocata de calamares – in Madrid we say bocata more than bocadillo – seems to be somewhere in between. First of all because of the fish in a city so far from the coast and then because of its simplicity, even because of how coarse it can be, depending on who prepares it.
But street food, the popular street food, never requires much elaboration, it has to be something quick to cook and eat, and if possible hearty, requirements that the squid sandwich certainly meets.
1. Plaza Mayor Brewery
You can’t miss it, you don’t have to think much. Nothing simpler than a squid sandwich in the Plaza Mayor. There are many here that serve the baguette with calamares a la romana and a touch of mayonnaise, but some are a must stop and Cervecería Plaza Mayor is one of them.
📍Location:Plaza Mayor, 2 (downtown)
2. Bar Postas
In Bar Postas the specialty is the calamari sandwich. In the beginning it was a fish fryer, but the success of their sandwiches -depending on the season, they can sell between 3000 and 4000 a day- which are sold at any time of the day, led them to gain the fame that they still maintain after more than 70 years open. In addition, the place is the history of Spanish cinema. Bigas Luna filmed some scenes of Las edades de Lulú here.
📍Location:Postas Street, 13 (downtown)
3. Apura
Apura is a sandwich shop, but with a traditional twist. Mario Céspedes’ dream was to open one in Madrid like the ones that proliferate in his native Lima, and he succeeded. The sandwich always has that quick, unpretentious, but very attractive part that, in addition, works at any time, that’s why Apura is always open. Among their chicharrón or entraña sandwiches you can find the squid in tempura with rocoto, to unite both cultures.
📍Location:45 Gral. Oráa Street (Lista)
4. La Ideal
Not far from the Plaza Mayor, La Ideal is another classic. They claim to have crispy bread and freshly fried calamari, the formula for success so that the sandwich meets expectations. The amount of calamari they usually serve makes it difficult to close the bread and it is a narrow place where you almost always eat standing at the bar, but this is all part of the experience of this typical dish.
📍Location: Calle de Botoneras, 4 (downtown)
5. El Respiro
El Respiro is a classic bar that survives the gentrification of Chueca, and as such has all kinds of free tapas with the drink and raciones. Their bocata de calamares is a bit more manageable than the typical ones, which is sometimes appreciated, and the calamares are elongated instead of round: easier to bite. A complete “castiza” experience, although with its own touch.
📍Location: Calle de las Infantas, 34 (Chueca)
6. El Brillante
El Brillante is an institution in the city. If you arrive or leave Madrid from Atocha, you have to stop here, because it is a perfect hello and goodbye to Madrid. The king of the menu is the calamari bocata, but almost any fried dish they have.
It’s a commonplace of the typical bar, terrazzo floors covered with dirty paper napkins thrown away by customers, well-pulled beers and old-school waiters.
📍Location:Plaza Emperador Carlos V (Atocha)
7. Los Bocadillos
Los Bocadillos is not deceiving: it is as simple as its name. They make sandwiches and both the bread and the filling are good. Considering that it is in Madrid, next to Plaza de España, the calamari sandwich was not going to be missing from the menu. You can eat at almost any time, it is the perfect place for when you are in a hurry and want to eat something cheap and good. The Madrid competition to the American fast food.
📍Location:Calle del Marqués de Urquijo, 1 (Argüelles) and Calle de Gaztambide, 27 (Chamberí).
8. Lhardy
Lhardy is much more than cocido madrileño. Its small store downstairs sells sweets, consommé in winter and the finest calamari bocatas -so much so that they call it bocatín-. The high price can be justified, in addition to the history of the place, by the mayonnaise made with the squid’s own ink and the spongy bread they call “bombón”.
📍Location: Carrera de S. Jerónimo, 8 (Downtown)
9. Vinegar Brothers
Hermanos Vinagre is one of the best places to have an aperitif in Madrid. And among its menu of classic tapas you can’t miss the most traditional bocata: the calamari one. Its special touch has lime zest and a sauce of which they do not give more clues. It is of small size, to be able to continue biting of other dishes, and they wrap it in a soft bread.
📍Location: Calle de Narváez, 58 (Retiro) and Calle de Gravina, 17 (Downtown).
10. Celso and Manolo
Celso y Manolo is a traditional tasca with a classic menu with good products. Their calamari sandwich is one of the best in the city, prepared with Cantabrian squid breaded only with organic flour. These rabas are fried in olive oil and served on a crusty bread, accompanied by a citrus sauce that enhances its flavor.
📍Location: Libertad Street, 1 (Downtown)