Behind the mountains, just an hour by car or train from Madrid, is Segovia, the old Castilian city where the rivers Eresma and Cigüeñuela converge, making it worthy of one of the great jewels of Roman architecture: the aqueduct.
But not only the Romans considered it an important enclave, the city is made of remnants of history that tell not only their own, but that of an entire country. The mixture of cultures and religions in the Middle Ages, the passing of the different kings and their pre-industrialization factories and, of course, a castle capable of inspiring princess tales, such as the one in Snow White make it an almost obligatory -and perfect- visit for a week-end.
1. A tour of what makes Segovia a UNESCO World Heritage Site
A tour to meet them all. A tour to fly over the ins and outs of the city and the wonders that made it a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. This guided tour goes through the totems of Segovia’s beauty, starting with the Aqueduct, continuing along the Calle Real (lined with epic buildings such as the church of San Martín or the Antigua Sinagoga Mayor) up to the cathedral.
Inside the so-called “lady of cathedrals” (which also includes this visit) we will understand everything: the Door of Forgiveness, the cathedral tower, the countless works of sacred art inside… This walk continues through the Canonjías neighborhood and culminates inside the Alcazar.
2. Segovia Aqueduct
There are symbols of architecture (or in this case of engineering) that are so recognizable and repeated that we take them for granted despite their magnificence, that happens with the aqueduct of Segovia.
Built between the end of the first and second centuries A.D., consists of 166 limestone arches perfectly assembled without the use of mortar, reaching a maximum height of 28 meters. This prodigy of Roman engineering stretches for almost 17 kilometers and provided the city with fresh water from the Sierra de Guadarrama until 1976, demonstrating the technical skill and durability of Roman civilization.
3. Antonio Machado House Museum
This former boarding house has remained standing at the beginning of the 20th century thanks to one of its guests: Antonio Machado. He arrived here to teach French in 1919 and did not leave until 1931. Here he met Pilar de Valderrama, also a poet, to whom he dedicated his work Canciones a Guiomar.
Everything is preserved as it is, with its modest furniture, except that now the walls are occupied by portraits of the youngest poet of the generation of ’98.
Desamparados Street, 5
4. Alcazar of Segovia
Palace, defensive fortress, prison, and as we said above, inspiration for all kinds of stories, the Alcazar of Segovia is one of the oldest medieval castles in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Its construction began in the 12th century, and from its walls came the funds to finance Columbus’ first voyage to America. The structure has a facade with pointed towers, twin windows and a moat. Inside, you can admire luxurious halls decorated with tapestries and an impressive throne room where the Trastámara dynasty resided. Its architecture and strategic location make it an iconic landmark and a must-see for those exploring Segovia’s rich history.
5. Jewish Quarter
The Hebrew community inhabited this neighborhood since the 12th century, until they were expelled in the Edict of Granada promulgated by the Catholic Monarchs in 1492, and their mark has been maintained. Strolling through the narrow, curving streets of the old Jewish quarter is an opportunity to immerse yourself in Segovia’ s rich Jewish cultural heritage, a fundamental element in understanding the city’s past. If you want to learn more about how they lived, the Centro Didáctico de la Judería has been created, located in the former house of Abraham Seneor.
Judería Vieja Street, 12
6. Cathedral
Another building in the city that has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985 is the Cathedral of the Assumption and San Frutos. Built between the 16th and 18th centuries, it is part of the late Gothic style, since in the rest of Spain and Europe the Renaissance style was already in vogue, of which it also has traces.
It is located in the Plaza Mayor of Segovia and its three floors of pinnacles, flying buttresses and gargoyles steal the attention of anyone passing by. Emilio Castelar, president of the First Republic, defined her as the Lady of the Cathedrals and since then she has been known as such.
7. San Andres Gate
The door of San Andrés is also known as the door or arch of Socorro de La Judería. It is the ticket on the south side of the wall, one of the few that are preserved intact in Spain.
Among other things, it is peculiar because it has two towers: a round one (rebuilt) and a square one. From here you can access the ramparts and the upper part of the wall, from where you can see the Jewish quarter and cemetery.
Martínez Campos Street
8. The Royal Mint
The Royal Mint was commissioned by Philip II and is one of the oldest and best preserved examples of industrial architecture in Europe. It was also a pioneer in introducing a mechanized way of producing coins, the so-called ingenios, 200 years ahead of the industrial revolution.
The buildings were the work of Juan de Herrera and are a clear example of his style, the Herrera style that left its mark on history thanks to the Monastery of El Escorial.
Calle de la Moneda, s/n
9. Tapas Tour in Segovia
Traveling usually has two main activities: sightseeing and eating. And in Segovia there are many dishes to try from judiones de la Granja (in Restaurante Duque), to milhoja de berenjena (Sephardic gastronomy in Restaurante Casa Mudéjar) to ponche Segoviano (in the bakery Limón y Menta). A good tapas tour that also includes the history of the city and cuisine is the solution to so many gastronomic offerings.
Plaza Azoguejo, 1
10. Eating suckling pig
There are those who, despite all the cultural richness of the city, only come here for one reason: to eat suckling pig. Although it is also roasted in the same way as in other parts of Castilla y León, the one from Segovia is protected by the Marca de Garantía Cochinillo de Segovia and can only be 3 weeks old.
It is also typical that it is served whole and split with a plate, to demonstrate the tenderness of the meat. This was started by Cándido López, owner of the most famous inn in the Azoguejo square, last century, and it has become a tradition.
11. Romeral de San Marcos (Leandro Silva’s Garden)
Between stone and historical stone (and tapa and tapa of food) it is good to know the green of the city. Known as Romeral de San Marcos, it is the exceptional legacy of Leandro Silva, a renowned Uruguayan landscape painter who left a deep mark on Segovia, especially thanks to this, his most personal and experimental masterpiece.
To see it in its entirety you must take a 45-minute tour of this unique botanical oasis that houses more than 300 species of plants from all over the world and with excellent views of the Alcazar.
17, Marqués de Villena St
12. The Alhondiga
Among the few remaining examples of buildings dedicated to commerce that were built during the reign of the Catholic Monarchs is the Alhóndiga de Segovia. It retains its original structure, where grain was stored and traded. It has an Elizabethan style façade with the coats of arms of the city on each side and its interior is divided into three bays with a steep access ramp that has been rehabilitated in recent years. Since 1925 it has been the Municipal Historical Archive, but can be visited free of charge.
Plaza de la Alhóndiga, 1
13. Medina del Campo Square
Visiting this square is like seeing a summary of Castilian architecture at a glance. It gathers the church of S. Martin of Romanesque and Mozarabic style, Renaissance mansions of the XVI century with a gallery similar to those used for drying wool and cloth, making it clear where the wealth of the area came from (the Castilian merino sheep still gives one of the best wool) and a central statue dedicated to the commoner Juan Bravo. A lot of history condensed into a few meters.