Malasaña is the mecca for any young alternative newcomer to Madrid. The capital’s bohemian neighborhood par excellence is now completely dedicated to leisure, but its origins are key to the city’s history.
The heroine of the May 2nd uprising against the French, Manuela Malasaña, now gives her name to the neighborhood that was originally called Maravillas. The spirit of that kind of rebelliousness lives on in its streets, especially in the Plaza del Dos de Mayo, where cultural movements such as the Movida Madrileña, or the resurgence of post-punk and indie in the mid-2000s were forged.
Eating and drinking in Malasaña
Bolivar
Bolivar, which for 52 years has been feeding the neighbors of the Malasaña neighborhood and curious people from other areas who come to try its competitive menus, has a clear concept that vertebrates the restaurant.
This concept is the seasonal product. Ángel Losada, son of the founder and current owner of the restaurant, stresses the importance of raw materials, seasonal produce and quality products.
Calle de Manuela Malasaña, 28
Malos Bar
The Malos menu maintains the essence of the classic Melo’s (not in vain is its little brother) with its homemade croquettes and its celebrated loaf bread, lacón and tetilla cheese slippers. But there are also novelties, such as bravioli (with a preparation based on that of the Parador de la Moncloa “our way”, with a roasted garlic aioli) and homemade cheesecake.
📍 Calle de Velarde, 13
Thunder
Their goal is clear: to revolutionize the fast food industry for the good of the planet, humans and animals. And so far they are succeeding with great pleasure. This small place located at 4 Don Felipe Street (next to San Ildefonso Square) needs only five types of hamburgers, five plates of seasoned fries and six different starters to conquer anyone’s stomach.
Their menu is simple but on point, perfect for one of those days when you feel like getting your boots on; and, best of all, it’s completely vegan. In its menu you will not find any animal products, although we are sure you will not believe it when you try it.
📍 Calle Don Felipe, 4
Harvey’s
There is something twinpeaknesque in Harveys’s. You get the feeling that, when you cross its red curtain, you will find the “man from another place” dancing or “Lady Leño” at the bar. Arranged in comfortable and intimate booths, you can choose a cocktail (or let the bartender surprise you) and let the time pass between sips. It is a quiet, relaxed place, one of those that invite you to forget the Reloj and long chats between gulps of a Ramos Gin Fizz (vanilla, creamy, a must).
📍 Calle de Fuencarral, 70
Coco Bar
The pastrami sandwich at Coco Bar should be a World Heritage Site (of Malasaña). In addition to this must-try, there are dishes such as Vietnamese sandwiches (Iberian bacon or vegan), quesesitas (corn empanadas stuffed with cheese) or their delicious nachos (ask for them with mandanga, chili con carne or in their vegetarian version).
But the best thing about the Coco is the atmosphere, the beers, the laughs. So much so that, after moving to a slightly larger location on the same street (you’ll find it at number 36 Espíritu Santo), they opened their second location in the Generation X store in Tirso de Molina.
📍Salledel Espíritu Santo, 36
Tapaloguistas
Two fresh double beers, perfectly poured, in a pleasant, fun place where you can feel like a family, for 5,50 €. This is the proposal of Tapaloguistas, a place owned by comedians Iñaki Urrutia and Sayago, which is about that: to laugh, surround yourself with your friends-family, in a place to feel at home.
📍Salledel Espiritu Santo, 21
Delish Vegan Doughnuts
Nobody’s sweet tooth is bitter. And much less if it is vegan. Delish Vegan Doughnuts is a very good alternative to the more traditional pastries, but without losing that artisanal and delicious touch. They specialize in donuts, but also offer the croissants rolls you may have seen all over Instagram and other more classic pastries. Mind you, they have so many different flavors and fillings for their donuts that the rest of the options will be left over.
📍CorrederaAlta de San Pablo, 12
Juancho’s
We have recommended Juancho’s about a hundred times and they are not enough. One of the best hamburgers in Spain and therefore in Madrid. First quality meat perfectly treated and a place in the aforementioned neighborhood. A must for burger lovers. Anything else? Yes, they have one of our stickers.
Andrés Borrego Street, 16.
What to do in Malasaña
Freeway
They will tell you of the Freeway that it is an “English Pub”. Perhaps that would be the definition of those who observe it from the outside, with its wood, its booths in front of the sale, its pints of beer. However, you only need to spend a few hours there to realize that downstairs is where it all happens (and, from British, it becomes Madrilenian to the max). When the moon rises, this Zone opens up and the music of the moment and the dancing is unleashed. Great option to start the night.
📍Callede San Vicente Ferrer, 7
The first Beer Pong bar in Spain
It had to happen in Malasaña. The eminently touristy drift of the neighborhood leads it to adapt, as chameleon-like as it is, to new and flamboyant fashions such as Beer Pong, that “sport” in which, while glasses and drinks are clinked and toasted, the contestant must be able to put some ping pong balls in different glasses. Such an outlandish idea as well as addictive.
📍ManuelaMalasaña, 31
💸 1 hour session + 1 drink for 10,00€
Infamous Types
A must in Malasaña, if ever there was one. Books and wines, what more could you ask for? Personalized attention (if you go a lot, they will keep your face, but, above all, your tastes), book presentations in the lair on the lower floor and a window display that is always catching with the best recommendations of the moment. Just across the street, you will find Menudos Infames, a second space dedicated to children’s and young adult books, graphic novels, poetry and theater.
📍Callede San Joaquín, 3
The fabulous
A newcomer to the neighborhood that is a bookstore and much more. Its creator, Alina Zarekaite, defined the project for Madrid Secreto at its opening as follows: “It is a bookstore specializing in narrative and graphic novels, but also a school: a space for workshops that have to do with the world of books and creativity”. To this concept of “the fabulous”, Zarekaite adds an integrating and diverse component and, in her selection, books written by racialized people, LGTBIQ+, women… stand out, in addition to finding a wide selection of works that flee from Eurocentrism.
📍Calledel Barco, 40
Polemo
The place where the cancellation of the straws began. We’re pretty sure it was here: at Polemo Shop. Wide and saggy pants, brands that you can only find in this store, hats and other items that make up our imaginary of street wear. In this store you will also meet a ward of the owner: Joey, a white American Staffordshire terrier that attracts all eyes in Corredera Alta.
📍 Corredera Alta de San Pablo, 2
Lucky Dragon
A red door with a neon dragon, there is no name, but it is the Lucky Dragon: one of the most iconic pubs in Madrid. When you enter this place you will travel somewhere in Asia -we don’t know exactly which one. Red lanterns invade the ceiling, thousands of posters with characters that we can’t decipher and even a small food stand where we will find the DJ.
At Lucky Dragon, created by Laura Vandall and Edgar Kerri, you can listen to mainly disco and house music and dance until 3:30, when it closes. In addition, in this pub the regulars of Malasaña meet in a casual way with some of the most important celebrities of the cultural scene.
📍 Calle de la Estrella, 3
La Fiambrera
As if from the work of the Modlins in a stroke of luck, we found an incredible gallery that brings together the work of more than 20 contemporary artists -both national and international. The space is divided into an art store and an exhibition hall, whose works change periodically.
La Fiambrera is focused on promoting artistic currents related to urban art, illustration, Pop aesthetics and contemporary surrealism. This diversity of styles can be appreciated as soon as you enter the space, where eclecticism and abundance of colors are the hallmark of the house.
📍 Calle del Pez, 7
The art shop cause
La Causa began as a gallery and art store, but is now divided. In Malasaña is his store specialized in prints, that is, numbered copies of artists. Here you can start your small art collection, or encourage someone to do so with a gift. They have prints from 30 € and all kinds of artists, Spanish and international.
The art gallery focused on emerging artists and urban art is now in the neighborhood of Las Letras, if your budget exceeds 100 € here you can also find something.
📍 Calle Jesús del Valle, 27 (Malasaña)
AMEN
A few meters from the Plaza del Dos de Mayo we find this concept store that has become a benchmark for design lovers in the capital. Streetwear, jewelry, decoration, magazines or specialized books are just some of the things you can find in AMEN.
The space is totally minimalist and with traces of Scandinavian design, from the outside we can observe its shop windows, which are true works of art. Inside you will only find a sample of each garment to appreciate its aesthetic value. In addition, it is common to have pop-ups or events in collaboration with other brands, making it an even more diverse and constantly evolving aesthetic space.
📍 Calle de San Andrés, 3
Son of Epigmenio
El Hijo de Epigmenio is a coquettish store dedicated to Spanish handicrafts, especially Andalusian ceramics. On the shelves of its wooden shelves are repeated the yellow, green and blue mottled pots, typical of Níjar, the classic pitcher that could well be in a costumbrista painting of Romero de Torres, or a green glass oilcan.
If you want your table to have a touch of tradition revisited, this is the place.
📍 Calle de la Puebla, 13
Vintage stores in Malasaña
Czech Mona
Velarde Street, in the heart of Malasaña, is where there are more second-hand clothing stores in Madrid. It is easy to distinguish the Czech Mona by the colors of its door and the large circus tent-like fabric on the roof. If you’re stunned by the masses of clothes, you prefer order, you’re looking for something that has passed a previous filter or something specific and at a good price, this is one of the stores you have to visit.
📍VelardeStreet, 2
Kinda kiks
Kinda Kinks is one of the temples of retro and indieclothing, as they define themselves, especially menswear. If your Spotify playlist is still playing Pulp and you wear Doctor Martens shoes even in the summer, you’ll probably find something for you here. Of particular note is their selection of Lacoste sweaters, as well as trench coats and Barbour.
📍 Calle Velarde, 6 y calle del pez, 16
Magpie
Magpie is a classic among the second-hand stores in Malasaña. Between short sleeve shirts from the 80’s, jeans from the 90’s and shoes from the 2000’s you can find some designer pieces, although they are not a store specialized in luxury, it is not difficult to find vintage Fendi, Gucci or Prada, among others. Like most stores of this type, you have to go from time to time to end up finding what you’re looking for, so it’s best to go with a clear idea.
📍 Calle Velarde 3, locales 3 y 4
This article has been written by Alberto del Castillo, Isabel Nieto, Miguel Ortiz y Elena French.