Before getting to know everything there is to do in Tetuán, the district to the north of the capital, it is necessary to go through its history. Tetuán, as a district of Madrid, is relatively young and joined Madrid with its present name in 1955.
The history of Tetouan begins in 1860, when the Spanish troops fighting in the African War camped in the now disappeared Dehesa de Amaniel. As a result of that settlement, the working-class neighborhoods of Tetuán de las Victorias, which belonged to the former municipality of Chamartín de la Rosa, and Cuatro Caminos were created along the current Bravo Murillo street. At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, the development of other similar zones such as Vallecas or Arganzuela thanks to the arrival of numerous Spanish immigrants from different provinces in search of work who were unable to settle in the region center of the capital.
Now its versatility is such that you can find a business area such as AZCA, and clearly residential areas with an unchanging neighborhood spirit, such as the Valdeacederas area, coexisting in the same district.
What to see in Tetuán
Neomudejar Route
Mudejar is an exclusively Spanish architectural style and rescuing it (putting the neo in front of it) implies vindicating Hispano-Muslim architecture. The neomudejar works as a synthesis of all the styles that coexisted in the peninsula. And Tetuán is possibly the Madrid neighborhood where this architectural style can be best appreciated.
The unrepeatability of Tetuán is ironically born from the repeatability in the construction of the district. Circumstance from which we can conclude about the need to defend the heritage. It is not a discourse that appeals to an empty reality: a walk through Madrid Nuevo Norte twenty years from now will not be different from a walk through any newly built neighborhood anywhere else in Spain.
Ventilla Park
Deliminated by the streets Sinesio Delgado, Avenida de Asturias, Vía Límite and Magnolias street, we find this pine forest as a breath of fresh air in the middle of the city of Madrid. So close to Chamartin and Plaza Castilla, it seems unbelievable that such a large pine forest takes place. The best thing, its zones for picnics near the waterfalls. Inside, it has a 1.5 kilometers long healthy pathway that can be practiced by bike or on foot.
If you immerse yourself among its pine trees, it gives the feeling of being farther away from the city than you really are, however, if you walk towards the higher areas, you can see some of the most iconic buildings of Madrid’s skyline, such as the Four Towers or the Kio Towers .
51 Vía Límite Street, 51
Abu-Bakr Mosque
Also known as the Central Mosque of Madrid or the mosque of Tetuan. This temple, which belongs to La Unión de Comunidades Islámicas de España (UCIDE), was inaugurated in 1988 and is a work of the architect Juan Mora. This is evidenced by a piece from El País signed by Emma Roig in April of that year, in which under the headline Desde Madrid se ve La Meca it is reported that “the first mosque of the town, in the neighborhood of Tetuán, will open in two months“.
While its title as Madrid’s first mosque is irrevocable, that of the city’s largest went to the M-30 mosque and its 12,000 square meters with its inauguration in 1992. Inside, decorated and designed in the style of Islamic art, its large prayer room stands out , with a dome from which hangs a large bronze chandelier and the glass windows that illuminate the space. It has four floors and services and facilities such as a nursery, assembly hall and courses in religion and Arabic.
5 and 7, Anastasio Herrero St
Typhlological Museum
A museum where the pieces are seen and read through touch and the concept of “do not touch” is obsolete. This is the pillar on which the ONCE Typhlological Museum in Madrid is based, probably one of those that could be catalogued as one of the most important museums in the world museums not so well known of the capital.
In addition to a room where you can find typhlological material and learn about the evolution of different writing systems prior and simultaneous to Braille, in this museum you can find two rooms dedicated to models of national and international monuments, “designed to facilitate tactile reading of its contents,” as the museum itself points out.
La Coruña Street, 18
Picasso Tower
The Picasso Tower, located in the AZCA Zone, concentrates in its 45 floors and 157 meters high several peculiarities, such as the fact that it was the tallest building in Madrid until the construction of the Four Towers or that the architect responsible for its design was Minoru Yamasaski, the same architect of the Twin Towers. That is to say: one of the most emblematic buildings in the capital was conceived by one of the most important architects of the last century.
Located in the square that gives it its name in the financial district of the capital, the building houses offices and has also been seen on the big screen in Alejandro Amenábar’s film Abre los ojos ( 1997), being the scene of its last scene.
Plaza Pablo Ruiz Picasso, s/n
Where to eat (and drink) in Tetuán
O’Rey
How curious this place is. It is located on the façade of the Tetuán Municipal Market facing Marqués de Viana Street, with no access from the market itself. It is a small stall, without tables or chairs, just a counter that closes at ungodly hours and from which they serve one of the best burgers in Madrid. So, without exaggeration. Thus, going unnoticed.
You’ll have a choice of two patties, chicken or beef. The rest? A glorious blend of ingredients straight from the market that encapsulates it, fresh, seasonal, flavorful, tender. There are only five types of hamburger and we especially recommend two: the O’Rey (double beef, double cheese, bacon, lettuce and ham) and the O’ Rey Corral (chicken, mayonnaise, cheese, onion, tomato, lettuce and pink sauce).
Its menu also includes pizzas, rolls, empanadillas… but you’ll come back for its hamburgers, promise.
Marqués de Viana Street, 4
Madreamiga by La Miguiña
Known among the locals as La Miguiña ( because that was its original name) Madreamiga is the neighborhood bakery which is attended by locals from other neighborhoods. Founded by Begoña San Pedro and with Clara Villalón as creative ambassador, Madreamiga is bakery excellence raised to the highest level.
Their bread, their biscuits, the incredible croissants, the brioche bread for hamburgers… We highly recommend trying their cinnamon rolls. Although, in truth, any of their sweets is perfect (and all of them are made with quality raw materials and no artificial elements).
Madreamiga generates physical queues at its door and virtual queues on its website day in and day out. But the Christmas madness here is almost as epic as in Abel Caballero’s Vigo: Madreamiga’s roscones cause real hysteria. Be warned for the next Epiphany.
26 Teruel St., Teruel Street
1000 Cups Roastery
A specialty coffee shop that also offers roasts its own coffee. In addition to getting your hands on their beans, you can, of course, taste the product in Blanco Argibay‘s coquettish premises. There, breakfasts have become a Tetuanera religion, with the best possible suppliers.
Their toasts, made with Panic’s sourdough bread, will be your undoing: watch out for the one with avocado, tomato confit, pesto, low-temperature egg and seeds; or the one with smoked salmon, low-temperature egg, avocado and pickled onion. His savory dishes also have a place in our hearts, like those sweet and sour tandoori chickpeas.
50 Blanco Argibay Street, 50
La Parra Tavern
The “lifetime” attribute applied to a bar is not or should not be a determining factor in defining the quality of that site. But in Taberna La Parra it is not only that, it is also the best starting point to talk about it. Small and classic-looking place, La Parra is one of the best places in Madrid to have a simple beer (for the tapa that accompanies it) and if you are in winter, a restorative broth of those that are made for hours and hours. Reasonable prices and generous portions.
39, Tablada St
Horchatería Oroxata
Oroxata (known as La Fábrica de Siempre) is a true institution in the city. It was established in Madrid in 1946, when Tetuán was not even a district of Madrid, which makes it the oldest horchatería in the capital. It began in the hands of José González and Pepina García, emigrants from Valencia to Madrid in the post-war period, who brought with them the art of making this tigernut drink.
The business is now in its fourth generation of master horchata makers and has not lost its Mediterráneo essence. They have homemade fartons, Valencian coca and a variety of ice creams and slushies. A place to make a pilgrimage to every time you want to relive summers on the coast.
📍 Pedro Tezano Street, 11 (corner with Villaamil, 44)
Mercado de Maravillas
The Maravillas Municipal Market is the largest in Madrid, and one of the largest in Europe. Since 1942, it has been one of the main markets in Tetouan, which has five in total. Now that local commerce is more in vogue than ever, Madrid’s markets are undergoing a renaissance, in which they are also being transformed and modernized, and the Mercado de Maravillas is also in this process.
Bravo Street Murillo, 122
Doña Tecla
The frenetic pace is what makes Madrid a city that never sleeps, but that does not mean that everyone needs a break from time to time. In those moments when there is no time for a short getaway having located these oases that serve as a refuge within the capital city becomes a necessity. One of them is Doña Tecla, a restaurant that makes you forget that you are in the middle of the Castellana axis. What stands out the most is its garden terrace the perfect ambiance to enjoy a cocktail or a snack dinner. And the best part comes when it gets dark and her lights are turned on, the moment when she shows her most intimate side.
Street Pintor Juan Gris, 2
Masa Naomi
Sushi is the perfect argument to contradict those who do not share the premise that food is sacred. While its growing popularity has led to a wide range of offerings that are not always synonymous with authenticity, the hundreds of years of history of this culinary discipline are still the dogma of restaurants like Masa Naomi.
In fact, although far removed from any pretentiousness, it can be stated that one of the most important the best places to eat sushi in Madrid is in the district of Tetuán. The soups, tempuras and nigiris on its menu are complemented by an ambiance that demonstrates its commitment to Japanese tradition.
Avila Street, 14
Tokyo-ya
The lovers of the japanese cuisine are in luck. The Tetuán neighborhood is home to one of the oldest stores selling Japanese products in the capital. With its first opening in the 80s, Tokyo-ya began its trajectory to bring the most characteristic dishes of its cuisine to local palates.
With a wide selection of products, which has been adapting to the latest trends and consumer demands, the store is a leader in the sector and carries out wholesale and retail sales. Thus, in addition to having several stores in Spain, Tokyo-ya has its own online store to facilitate the purchasing process. However, we recommend visiting the physical space, if possible, to transport yourself to a small Tokyo supermarket for a moment.
Avenida del Presidente Carmona, 9
La Martinuca
This restaurant in the neighborhood of Tetuán is on every possible list of the best tortillas in town. And if you are a lover of a lightly cooked, tasty omelet with an exceptional product, you should not miss it. With their motto “échales huevos”, the owners refocus the traditional cuisine of their grandmother Martina with an organic and local product .
They have options for all types of tortilleros, individual or to share, with onion and without onion, and for the less classic ones, with onion confit or sobrasada.
San Leopoldo Street, 8
What to do in Tetouan
Alcaná Books
Madrid is full of used bookstores (some people still call them old bookstores) and Alcaná is one of the most emblematic. The measure of how emblematic it is can be done, for example, by counting the reviews on Google: it has more than 4,000 (more than any other bookstore in Madrid). Its catalog is almost endless and its shelves, if they look like anything, resemble the Library of Babel that Borges spoke of in his famous story. Books galore.
Marqués de Viana Street, 52
Maria Ship
Nave María is a space that is difficult to define as it concentrates several concepts and encompasses endless possibilities. Nave María was a carpentry shop. Today, it’s a warehouse filled with plants, vintage decor, mismatched but perfectly matched chairs and tables. It also hosts a small courtyard, a greenhouse, a vegetable garden, even an indoor pool. One of its main legs is Casa Consciente, a space for conversation, workshops, film evenings, courses… the place for the exchange of ideas.
Also in Nave María, during the summer months of last year, the successful Cantina Divina was set up, a restaurant-school with a marked philanthropic character: its objective was the socio-labor reintegration of young people at risk of exclusion. Not only did they succeed, but the neighbors of the neighborhood are still asking, today, when this project will return to enjoy a proximity gastronomy in a magical place.
Travesía Bellver, 2
59:59 Escape
59:59 Escape is a challenge to solve in the middle of the city. The elements that set its immersive rooms are chosen with dedication to transport participants to completely remote locations. The escape room, which begins once the team is locked in the room of the story they have chosen, goes through a series of phases guided by the voice of a facilitator. Depending on the performance of the group and the development of the plot, their mediation will be decisive for the deciphering of the case.
The venue has several experiences to suit the number of players and their level. Specifically, the precinct located in this neighborhood features the stories of The Captain, Doc’s Time Machine, The Terminal and The Tower of Babel. In them, Madrid is transformed into a maritime adventure, back to the 80’s or becomes a mysterious flight. Of course, you should not let this time travel alter your perception of him.
Fortunata y Jacinta Street, 5
Panda Club
Madrid’s nightlife has an appointment with one of the most important trendy parties panda Club. Its installations are composed of different spaces crowned by graffiti, neon lights and other elements of the most undergroundaesthetics. Therefore, this proposal becomes the ideal option for all tastes. In each of its rooms a different musical genre is played. The most current Pop, reggaeton, electronic music and DJ sessions will thrill those who enjoy a different night of entertainment in the capital.
In addition, if anything characterizes Panda Club is its exclusive atmosphere and its careful dress code. There you will be able to meet with renowned personalities of the artistic scene and enjoy an unbeatable atmosphere provided by the panda party.
75 Hernani Street, 75
Lola Garage Space
Espacio Garaje Lola was born as a creativemulti-space where you can give free rein to your projects. It is not only available for rent (being a picturesque and cozy location suitable for events or shootings), but also has an extremely interesting cultural program. Being a place designed to host art exhibitions, photography… from September to June you will always find a temporary exhibition. Its industrial design, with good acoustics, also becomes a container for concerts ,micro-theaters and lectures. You can check its Program at its website.
53 Sorgo St., Sorgo Street
Moby Dick Club
“La Moby” has been fighting since 1992. 30 years of anecdotes, 30 years of music history. This venue, which was born as a tribute to Herman Melville’s great novel in what used to be a former brothel, has seen epic bands, new groups, emerging soloists..
Inside, moments for posterity and almost oblivion have been recorded, such as when the singer of The Horrors, Faris Badwan, decided to unhook the mirror ball from the ceiling and throw it over the audience. Error and horror.
Also moments forever, with epic performances such as Antonio Vega ‘s intimate one in 2004 or that time when Chavela Vargas sang a couple of rancheras ( although she had attended as a spectator of Jay-Jay Johanson’s concert).
At the Moby we were able to witness the beginnings of bands like Nudozurdo, Los Punsetes, Vetusta Morla. .. but also the first moments of Beach House, Damien Jurado, The Libertines. .. The list is endless. And hopefully the Moby Dick too. long live the music!
Avenida de Brasil, 5
It is difficult to pigeonhole an area where you can find clubs, large parks, skyscrapers, neo-Mudejar houses and a mosque. Tetuán is a clear example of how Madrid is built with stories of the most diverse people who have made the capital their home.
This article has been written with fourteen hands by Alberto del Castillo, María F. Carballo, Selene Garcia, Isabel Nieto, Laura Sanchez, Carmen Seco y Elena French.