¿The Prado Museum? the Royal Palace? Yes, you have to see them, but there is so much more to do in the center of Madrid to discover the true essence of the capital.
From its century-old restaurants to trendy cafés, Madrid values the old while remaining constantly on the lookout for the new. Although along the way some emblematic places have been lost, such as the oldest stationery salazar, or the conde Duque Cinemas. Neighborhoods and squares have also been recovered thanks to the renovation and pedestrianization of many of the city’s streets.
Madrid doesn’t ask for surnames, nor place of origin, to be able to own it, you just have to know how to keep the rhythm.
What to see in Madrid center
The Plaza de la Villa
The Plaza de la Villa is one of the best preserved Suites of medieval Madrid, although it is less known than the neighboring Plaza Mayor. The Lujanes House and Tower (in the background) is the oldest civil building in the capital – built in the second half of the 15th century.
It is followed by the Casa Cisneros, which was built by the nephew of the famous cardinal and is easily recognized by the overhanging passageway that connects it to the Casa de la Villa. The latter has been the seat of the Madrid City Hall from 1693 to 2007 and condenses almost all the characteristics of Madrid’s Herrerian architecture.
Descalzas Reales Monastery
The Monastery of the Descalzas Reales is the jewel of the Madrid of the Austrias. This architectural complex was created in the 16th century by order of Juana of Austria, daughter of Emperor Charles V and sister of Philip II.
Its architecture combines Renaissance and Baroque elements, but with a sober facade. However, the interior harbors an artistic and cultural richness that is surprising and continues to be a topic of interest for current podcasts such as Philip’s Daughters. Its extraordinary art collection includes paintings by Italian Baroque artists, tapestries by Rubens and religious objects of great historical and artistic value.
El Campo del Moro
At the rear of the Royal Palace is the Campo del Moro, one of the most important more bucolic gardens and less known of the city. The 19th century pavilions and the Queen’s Chalet stand out for their surprising architecture, which is unusual in the city. You may also come across some of the peacocks that live there and occasionally jump over the fence causing chaos in the surrounding streets.
Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto, 1
Sabatini Gardens
Among the most popular gardens in the capital the Sabatini Gardens are an oasis in the middle of the city Hapsburg Madrid. Their link with the Royal Palace, of which they offer a privileged view, is evident from their very name, which they received in honor of the Italian architect who participated in the design of the monument, Francesco Sabatini. In addition, they are filled with white marble sculptures that were originally intended to decorate the palace. Its neoclassical style, strengthened by the symmetry of its elements, contributes to its being considered one of the most important the most romantic corners of the city.
Royal Basilica of St. Francis the Great
Down the San Francisco race from La Latina one of the best views of the largest dome in Spain: that of the Royal Basilica of San Francisco el Grande. Inside this National Monument built by Sabatini in 1784, you will find canvases by Goya and Zurbarán surrounded by marble sculptures and frescoes that decorate the 33-meter diameter of the dome. The architectural and artistic value of this neoclassical building is not comparable to almost any other church in the city.
San Buenaventura Street, 1
What museums to visit in downtown Madrid
Fine Arts Center
The Centro de Bellas Artes (CBA) is a Madrid institution that brings together all cultural interests in a single, centrally located space. In its lower part there is a cinema, a theater and a bookstore.
In its interior several rooms have housed exhibitions of international echoes such as Stanley Kubrick, but above all it is a space that promotes national art.
And at the top, there is a viewpoint that offers one of the best views of Madrid – it allows you to contemplate the center of the city from 56 meters above Alcalá Street. The cost to go up to the roof is 5.5 € for the general ticket and 4 € for the ticket with youth card.
Calle de Alcalá, 42
Thyssen-Bosnemisza National Museum
In terms of museums Madrid has a wide wealth, and the Art Triangle is not complete without the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. In the breadth of its collection you can find paintings by artists such as Van Eyck, Dürer, Titian, Caravaggio, Rubens, Rembrandt, Canaletto, Monet, Degas, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Picasso, Kirchner, Kandinsky, O’Keeffe, Hopper, Dalí or Pollock.
The Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection, of private origin, was acquired by the State in 1993 and its breadth – which spans from the fourteenth to the twentieth century – makes it, in the words of the cultural space itself, “a true synthesis of Western painting”. At this link you can find out when to visit the Thyssen and other museums in Madrid for free.
Paseo del Prado, 8
Prado National Museum
If there is one thing the Prado does not need is an introduction: the art gallery is an international cultural and artistic reference, and proof of this is, among other merits, the fact that it is among the most important art galleries in the world ten top-rated museums worldwide.
Its collection ranges from works by Goya or Velázquez to those of artists such as Rembrandt, Titian, El Greco, El Bosco or Fra Angelico, and for some time now its commitment to disseminate art in new formats can be seen in various initiatives such as the collaboration with Nintendo, in which you could visit virtually in the video game Animal Crossing.
Calle de Ruiz de Alarcón, 23
Museum of Romanticism
Chandeliers, exclusive upholstery, masterpieces by Goya, Esquivel or the Bécquer brothers… The former palace of the Marquis of Matallana became the Museum of Romanticism to collect a selection of unique pieces and everyday elements of the bourgeoisie of the time to show a lifestyle starring artists, intellectuals and politicians.
In addition, the site hosts particularly curious spaces for the public as the Magnolia Garden, which has a French structure of the eighteenth century. Today, the grounds have a coffee shop where you can enjoy a moment of relaxation with a view of the bygone era.
The museum also has a program that offers activities for visitors and guided tours to understand the importance of romanticism in Spain and in the city of Madrid.
San Mateo Street, 13
Reina Sofia Museum
The contemporary museum par excellence refreshes its activities as it does every summer. The Reina Sofia Museum has named the new permanent collection Communicating Vessels, and if you decide to take shelter from the heat in its galleries you will be able to enjoy works that were not previously on display. On the other hand, once again this year the Reina Sofia Museum moves its screen to the open air to enjoy a summer cinema with a special program of musical films.
For less than a month the museum’s library has been offering the exhibit The Juana Mordó Mordó in post-Franco artwhich portrays the Spanish art scene during the transition period through three thematic axes: political art and the politics of art, its international diffusion and its relationship with the market.
C. de Sta. Isabel, 52
La Casa Encendida
A cultural center of reference in Madrid, the Casa Encendida is a compendium of educational activities, reflection and debate, which revolve around its four areas of action: culture, solidarity, environment and education. That is, here you can find contemporary art exhibitions, concerts by alternative artists, film series, gardening courses, talks on mental health, and a host of proposals mostly free or at very affordable prices. It is a focus of creativity and a friendly face of the capital.
Ronda de Valencia, 2
CaixaForum
The CaixaForum in Madrid becomes a refuge for visitors in the summer months, like many of the capital’s cultural centers, and in the last ten years, it has become ain ten years, the multidisciplinary center has become an undisputed benchmark. Its projections or the vertical garden are a must-see this summer, and from July 14, it also offers an unparalleled collaboration with the British MuseumMuseum.
Egyptian mummies: Rediscovering Six Lives illustrates the hidden history behind six Egyptian mummies and offers insight into how people lived and died along the Nile Valley between 800 B.C. and A.D. 100. This tour explores identity through the idea of mummification and its testimony.
P.º del Prado, 36
Where to eat (and drink) in downtown Madrid
Botín Restaurant
The Botín furnaces have not been paid for since 1725. It is the oldest restaurant in the world, and a must in Madrid de los Austrias. It is said that even Goya himself has passed through its kitchen, or at least that is what the Guinness Book of Records mentions, which in 1987 named it the oldest restaurant in the world. This restaurant, along with the list of bares centenarios of the city, is living history of the capital.
Cuchilleros Street, 17
Antón Martín Market
Considered all a gastronomic mecca in Madrid the Antón Martín Market is a clear example of a traditional market that knew how to evolve and adapt its function to the new times. With gastronomy as its backbone, the number of quality restaurants per square meter it houses inside is astounding. Among them, the following stand out Doppelgänger yoka Loka, La Saletta or Sincio one of those that you have to try once in a lifetime.
Santa Isabel Street, 5
Wang Wang
does the best chinese restaurant from the center of Madrid? We neither confirm nor deny. His letter is a bible: because it is necessary to profess it and because of its dimensions. There are dishes that also deserve to be revered, such as lamb with cumin, rice pasta with Korean sauce or sautéed snow peas. Dishes you didn’t know existed with products you didn’t know existed at more than competent prices.
San Bernardino Street, 6
San Ginés
If there is a traditional place (one of those of a lifetime) that every Madrilenian recognizes without exception, it is the Chocolatería San Ginés. Located in a small corner of the street from which it takes its name, this temple of chocolate with churros seems to be taken from another era, which is not entirely surprising considering that its beginnings date back to 1894. Churros, porras and chocolate, the only three keys to a success that has even crossed borders.
Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5
San Fernando Market
As is the case with others such as the now defunct olavide market the germ of “SanFernando” is in a food market that was held outdoors, in what is now the Plaza de la Corrala. The building, inaugurated in 1944, was built by architect Casto Fernández-Shaw, responsible for other buildings in the city such as Porto Pi -a gas station considered a masterpiece of rationalist architecture of which a replica can be seen today at Alberto Aguilera, 18-.
Among the market stalls are stores ranging from butchers and greengrocers to a dyeing studio, a bookstore that sells its books by weight, and restaurants and food stalls such as Bendito Vinos y Vinilos, which is on our list of the best restaurants in the world 14 restaurants that are in markets of a lifetime (and to be tried).
Embajadores Street, 41
Tricycle
Triciclo’s bet has long been one of the most interesting in Madrid. An eclectic menu, with a lot of rotation, undefinable, and plenty of market and seasonal products. Some of its classics are potatoes with grilled squid and pork face. A firm bet to win a Michelin Star in the near future. This recommendation may well serve to visit now that you don’t have to book months in advance.
Calle de Sta. Maria, 28
Casa Lucio
A Madrid classic. Little more can be said about this restaurant where monarchs, presidents from all over the world, artists, athletes and even astronauts have gathered. According to the tavern owner who gives his name to the business, there have been many occasions when he has been offered a Michelin star, but he has always turned them down because the real stars were already seated in his place. If you haven’t tried it yet, cracked eggs are an obligation. Almost, almost like visiting the Vatican and not standing in line for the Sistine Chapel.
35 Cava Baja Street, 35
Lhardy House
The restaurant has been open since 1839 and has a lot of history. So much so, that the Manolete himself has eaten there and also has appeared in the works of Azorín and Galdós. The place, decorated in the style of the 19th century, was built in Madrid before the appearance of electric light, telephone and even the asphalting of the streets. At Lhardy the stew is served in two bowls, and we like very much that the first one (the soup) has pieces of meat and chicken.
Carrera de San Jerónimo, 8 (Sol)
Freedom Cakes Café
The first vegan bakery in Madrid is located just a few meters from Puerta del Sol. Con una carta protagonizada por sus deliciosas tartas, tortitas, gofres y batidos de lo más fotogénicos, Freedom Cakes Café va más allá para acercar una amplia variedad de platos salados con un toque muy original. From colorful hamburgers to calamari portions, its menu never ceases to amaze. Moreover, his proposal does not end there. Freedom offers a home delivery service and also has another location specializing in vegan artisanal pizzas.
Cádiz Street, 7
Malos Bar
The Bar Malos is the little brother of the emblematic Bar Melo’s and less than a year old, its popularity is such that without a reservation it is difficult to secure a table for dinner (at least for large groups). If your plan is dinner for two, you can immediately find a spot at the bar or at one of the tables. Its menu is also twinned with those of Melo’s: the ham croquettes and the mythical slipper, which has not changed half an ingredient .
El Malos, unlike the Melo’s, is projected towards the night malasañera and so it offers a series of cocktails such as Moscow Mule, Strawberry Fields or Old Fashioned with which you can extend your weekend evenings. Its location is almost unbeatable: it is in front of La Vía Láctea and a few meters from the Plaza del Dos de Mayo .
Velarde Street, 13
What to do in downtown Madrid
Infamous Types
Since the arrival of the Infamous at Malasaña something changed in the neighborhood: the literary gatherings, the literary wines, the events around the pages of paper… What a pleasure, Infamous Types on the second day of your visit, they know exactly which book you are going to like, which publisher you should check out, which novelty should not be missing in your basket.
In 2019 they welcomed their youngest child (literally) Menudos Infames. A space, just a few meters from the ‘father’ in San Joaquín 6, dedicated to children’s literature. The perfect trap for raising a budding little literati.
San Joaquin Street, 3
UndertheVolcano
It is a novel. It is a movie. It is the must-stop vinyl store of Lavapiés. Their selection does not disappoint and, as soon as you walk in, you will understand what they are all about Under the volcano paying attention to the musical thread: vinyls, of course, which are sold in the store.
There is also space for literature that is dedicated, to a greater extent, to the musical genre: biographies of legends, of groups, books written by musicians… but there is also room for a compilation of works by publishers such as Periférica or Nórdica. Ah. By the way. You go down the stairs, there’s still more.
42 Ave Maria St., Ave Maria Street
Discos La Metralleta
What Location, The Machine Gun. The ticket is already a declaration of intentions, going down those stairs that come out of nowhere in Postigo de San Martín street. A huge place, divided into two locations, full of all the CDs, vinyls, DVDs, blue-rays, VHS… you can imagine. Metralleta is an absolute space-time hole. To enter there is to enter a world where, on any Monday morning, a dozen people gather to buy CDs or video tapes.
1 Postigo de San Martín Street, 1
Combed Can
Lata Peinada, a bookstore specializing in Latin American literature located at number 6 Apodaca Street, is not just any bookstore. This cliché (“she’s not like the others”, “she’s just different”) is understood on the basis of four axes. To wit: a handcrafted catalog, a cafeteria area, a promise of cultural stimulation and a shelf with what they call little jewels.
6 Apodaca Street.
El Rastro
El Rastro has been the open-air market the restaurant has been a reference point for the people of Madrid since the eighteenth century, although it has been able to adapt to the times. Today it is much more than just a second-hand market, in fact, there are fewer and fewer second-hand stores left and new, more niche stores are springing up, such as The Official the new market is the backbone of the neighborhood, which is structured around the flea market.
To live the full experience of the Rastro you have to end with a typical cover such as those at Bar Santurce, which is Madrid’s version of the street food stalls that we might find in other cities.
Ribera de Curtidores Street and surroundings
Equis Room
Undoubtedly, one of the most innovative proposals in the capital. The site of the former Alba Cinema has been refurbished to offer an alternative leisure experience. It is an ideal place for movie lovers in original version and for those who wish to enjoy a drink in a different environment, Equis Room builds a proposal in which gastronomic experiences, scenographic pieces and projections converge.
Planned as a place for cultural exchange, Sala Equis has become an obligatory stop in Madrid to enjoy an evening in a relaxed and unconventional atmosphere.
Duque de Alba Street, 4
This article has been written with fourteen hands by Alberto del Castillo, María F. Carballo, Selene Garcia, Isabel Nieto, Laura Sanchez, Carmen Seco y Elena French.