A recurring comparison has arisen at Puerta del Ángel: Brooklyn. And the truth is that the only thing that resembles the New York district is that it is on the other side of the river… and in the gentrification.
The latter has come perhaps more gradually than expected, and taking into account that many of the buildings are humble post-1950s constructions of public housing projects of the time (there are still quite a few metal plates that indicate this on the facades). In many cases, the low houses were demolished in the style of the neomudejar that existed here and in other neighborhoods such as Tetuán, although some still survive in the Alto de Extremadura colony.
The neighborhood is structured by Caramuel Street, which begins at the Paseo de Extremadura and ends at the Ermita del Santo Park, which has one of the best views of the capital.
Where to eat in Puerta del Angel
We are Gozar
Gozar is a self-described neo-Newberna castiza and is on our list of the most important best gastronomic openings in 2022.. It is a narrow and elongated place on Caramuel Street, which speaks very well of the transformation that the neighborhood is undergoing. The coexistence of the old and the new is evident in the dishes: from torreznos with satay sauce and curried peanuts (the jewel of the menu), to chicken meatballs stewed in Madrid stew broth and Thai curry.
But as a tavern, by definition, it has to have a wide selection of drinks: there are imported beers and local brands, and they do tastings in case you want to try them all. There is also wine, and the glass is around 2€.
📍 Calle de Caramuel, 19
Eusebio’s corner
Eusebio’s Corner is the name that comes to mind for those who imagine a canonical neighborhood bar. Its bar is crowded with people and tapas that can be eaten in open bar format. People who sigh for El Tigre don’t know that La esquina de Eusebio exists: with a drink you have a free pass to stock up on their canapés.
A leaf from a 2014 article presides over a wall. In it, the journalist in question says that the double beer is somewhat expensive (2.5€). Years have passed, the price has not gone up, the quality has been maintained and the journalist’s comment would now be contradictory. It is also worth sitting down and trying their tomato salad and churrasco steak. A fixed stop.
Magpie Coffee
This area of Puerta del Angel, around the Tirso de Molina market, is the most buoyant Zone, where there are always people. Urraca Café is another place that makes evident the arrival of younger people to Puerta del Ángel. A large space, perfect for breakfasts and snacks, and where you can also use your laptop if you are looking for a coffee for a coffee break telework.
📍 Calle de Doña Urraca, 18
Patagonian Flavors
It’s the secret you have to know if you are a fan of concerts at La Riviera. Sabores Patagónicos is in the perfect location for the preview ( with terrace): it is right across the Manzanares, that psychological barrier that for some people means “far away”, although it is not. What can we find in its menu? Pure Argentinean gastronomy, both sweet and savory. They even offer a catering service -very much in demand at Christmas time. You will be surprised by its wide range of pastries. And, finally, its empanadas, pizzas, sandwiches, choripanes and lots of chimichurri!
📍Glorietadel Puente de Segovia, 1.
La Moñoña
The place for vermouth, beer or wine. At La Moñoña you will feel “like La Moñoño”, with an incredible wine bar prepared to make the most oenophiles salivate and a complete and curious assortment of vermouths. In his menu of good food (not everything is going to be drinking), portions such as potatoes lacón, crispy shrimp, shrimp pancakes, croquettes (Iberian ham, gorgonzola, boletus and truffle or Huelva shrimp with garlic confit, oh-la-la). Also fried fish cones (dogfish, anchovies…), toasts, muffins, and do not miss their section of “things with eggs”, meats and fish. You have to go to want to come back.
📍 Calle de Caramuel, 11.
Café del Rio
This restaurant on the banks of the Manzanares River offers one of the most unique views of the city. The Café del Rio viewpoint gives a north-south perspective of the Madrid skyline: from the Moncloa lighthouse to the Almudena Cathedral, passing by the Tower of Spain and the Royal Palace. The space has an outdoor terrace in the heart of Madrid Río, a modern and open-plan lounge and a viewpoint. Café del Rio’s gastronomic offer ranges from breakfasts to lunches and dinners and has a daily menu for 14€.
📍 Av. de Portugal, 1
The fifth of the deaf
Delicious hamburgers in a place with a charm that, first and foremost, comes from the team. With five years of serving delicious burgers in the neighborhood, has a menu with carnal sins such as the Memphis, with lettuce mix, Colombian-style shredded beef, cheddar, pickle and pickled onion, or the EggBurger with melted cheese, bacon and egg. In addition, sandwiches, hot dogs, tapas (broken eggs, croquettes, calamari, bravas…) and one meat and one fish as main courses. Also noteworthy are the vegan options (such as that delicious bienmesabe) and its wide offer for breakfast lovers (with lighter combos or hearty brunches with vegan options).
As Rocío Pantoja, owner of La Quinta del Sordo, tells us, here they work with raw materials bought locally “to promote small businesses“. He reveals that the most requested dish is usually the burger of the month,“a signature burger proposal“. Not in vain, they are already part of the list of Repsol Soletes.
📍 Calle de Juan Tornero, 41.
Tirso de Molina Market
PanDomè
Domenico Rosso is in charge of this bakery where everything is handmade: the pizzas, the breads, the pasta – which they sell fresh to cook at home – and the panettones (which sell out daily at Christmas). PanDomè has perfected the flour and oven technique so much that they also offer workshops so that you can knead with knowledge in your kitchen.
Vegicano
Its cuisine, a Mexican-international fusion with a vegan and vegetarian orientation, makes this stall one of the most curious (and delicious) of the Tirso de Molina Market. Its dishes inspired by Mexican tradition but in aplant-basedversion stand out, such as its vegan tinga quesadilla or its verdurita pibil tacos, although the variety of its menu ranges from curries to hamburgers.
This restaurant also shares premises, owner and chef with LaMercantina, a food stall in the market that maintains the menu of its neighbor El Vegicano but this time using animal products. A good 2×1 suitable for all palates, diets and lifestyles.
What to see in Puerta del Ángel
Segovia Bridge
Over the Manzanares River, of course, stands the oldest bridge in Madrid, built in 1584 to facilitate the ticket to the city the nondescript village that Philip II turned into the capital of the kingdom. In its four centuries of history, the Segovia Bridge has undergone two major renovations: its reconstruction after the Civil War and its expansion with the burial of the M-30. For several years now, surrounded by water and vegetation, it has been an icon of the landscape of Madrid Río.
📍 S egovia Bridge
Parish of Santa Cristina
The parish of Santa Cristina surprises those who are not expecting to find this church neo-Mudejar with its imposing tower so “far” from the center (i.e., to almost everyone). It is a small temple, but with a brick facade that deserves more than a quick glance. It dates back to 1906 and houses a garden and a beautiful image of Jesus of Medinaceli.
📍 Paseo de Extremadura, 32
The mural homage to Goya
In what was once the home of the Aragonese painter, in the Quinta del Sordo, today you can see a large mural that shows the presence that Goya had in the place. The tribute reproduces one of his best-known works: the half-sunken dog, in an impressive mural painted by Marco Prieto Sánchez. It is not the only mural that can be admired on those walls, but what they all have in common (besides the figure to whom they pay Tribute) is that their presence is the result of the will of the neighbors to celebrate one of the most illustrious characters of the neighborhood.
📍 Calle de Caramuel, 36
What to do in Puerta del Ángel
Goya Theater
The Goya Theater is so named because nearby was once the Quinta del Sordo, the house where the artist painted some of his most important works. It is one of the few cultural spaces in the neighborhood, after the closure of the Montacargas Theater. It is located in the La Ermita shopping mall complex, which is expected to be will be demolished for the construction of two Bloc buildings.
It has multiple halls and a garden where there are also concerts, theater and presentations.
📍 Calle Sepúlveda, 3 y 5
La Riviera
It is one of the most legendary concert halls in the capital with decades of history and a privileged location: on the banks of the Manzanares River. Its more than 1,500 square meters can accommodate up to 2,500 people and has been the place where artists of the stature of Lou Reed, Alanis Morissette, Andrés Calamaro or Celia Cruz have passed through. It currently hosts concerts of artists such as La Bien Querida, Shinova, The Cat Empire or Sexy Zebras and is one of the reference points of the night in Madrid.
📍 Paseo Bajo de la Virgen del Puerto, s/n
This article was written with twelve hands by Alberto del Castillo, María F. Carballo, Isabel Nieto, Lucía Mos, Javi Bisbal y Elena French.