To sum up everything to do in Lavapiés is to try to cover one of the most lively neighborhoods of the city, where palaces like the Fernán Núñez and museums of international relevance such as the Reina Sofia Museum coexist with cultural spaces such as La Casa Encendida. This drive is also present in the essence of the neighborhood itself. Being one of the most “castizos”, here is celebrated the feast of Las Mayas and summer festivals such as the one of San Lorenzo is also one of the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the city.
According to data from the Madrid City Council, around 30% of the inhabitants of Lavapiés are foreigners, almost double the average for the city of Madrid. So it is not surprising that Lavapiés street itself is almost exclusively dedicated to Indian restaurants, that there is one of the strongest African communities in the capital and that the central square is the best place to practice other languages without leaving Madrid.
Things to see in Lavapiés
Pious Schools of San Fernando
It is better not to enter here if the intention is to undergo a study marathon, because the view detaches from the notes and wanders alone through the corners and ceilings of this library located in the ruins of a hermitage of the eighteenth century. But who could resist reading a good book under those vaults and in the nave of the church? UNED students can, and all other visitors have to apply for a card to spend some time within the historic walls of one of the most important historical sites in Spain madrid’s most beautiful libraries.
Tribulete Street, 14
Fernán Nuñez Palace
Among the lesser-known but must-see palaces in Madrid fernán Nuñez Palace is at the top of the list. It has been the scene of numerous series, movies and video clips for its rococo rooms with Versaillesque airs, but with a facade of the most simple and that does not give rise to imagine the richness of the interior to the passerby. This 18th century jewel with Baccarat crystal chandeliers, silk fabrics, and marble, bronze and bronze coverings… is located in the heart of the Lavapiés district.
Calle de Santa Isabel, 44
La Casa Encendida
La Casa Encendida was designed by architect Fernando Arbós y Tremanti. The first stone was laid on May 1, 1911, and in its first years the building housed the offices of a banking institution. Today, it is a cultural and social center that hosts exhibitions, symposiums, lectures and a variety of free cultural programs. Dance workshops, art workshops and screenings of author documentaries are some of the options you can find at your Program. In addition, they have a library and a rooftop cafeteria so you can spend the whole afternoon there.
Ronda Valencia, 2
This is a square
The perfect plan in Doctor Fourquet street is to go for a Hola coffee and drink it, so at ease, in Esta es una plaza. A space recovered by the neighbors of the Zone who hold their meetings here, organize activities for the little ones and plant in one of the most beautiful urban gardens (and orchards) in the city. Enter, stroll, breathe in this oasis in the heart of Madrid and, before leaving, pick up your trash and leave everything as it was. Only in this way will the beautiful things remain.
24 Doctor Fourquet Street, 24
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
One of the most important national art galleries is located in the Lavapiés neighborhood. Belonging to what is known as the Art Triangle of Madrid, some of the key works of the twentieth century can be visited. Although Picasso’s Guernica is usually the painting sought and captured by all cultural pilgrims who enter the Reina Sofia Museum, it is only one of the many other paintings in the Reina Sofia Museum essential works that this exhibit.
Sonia Delaunay, Salvador Dalí, René Magritte, Remedios Varo, Francis Bacon, Joan Miró and Maruja Mallo are some of the names that make up the list of artists of different styles whose legacy makes up the treasure that the Sabatini building holds within its four walls.
Calle de Santa Isabel, 52
Where to have coffee in Lavapiés
Hello Coffee
The name Hola Coffee has one intention: to welcome specialty coffee neophytes and open the doors to more experienced coffee drinkers. The point is that here, among aromatic and gustatory notes, coffee is still coffee; and the ritual of drinking coffee is democratic.
In addition to tasting these beans roasted by the Hola Coffee team (Nolo Botana and Pablo Caballero at the helm) you can also sample the Mission Bakehouse confectionery. We added two new arrivals to welcome fall: a classic in the house, Pumpkin Spice Latte; and a new neighbor, Apple Crumble Latte, a drink based on apple, cinnamon and cookie crumble.
33 Doctor Fourquet Street, 33
Acid
Both Acid Café and Acid Bakehouse are two places to be in the Lavapiés neighborhood for those who like to enjoy specialty coffee and of the sourdough bread. They use coffee beans from La Cabra, a Danish brand, and their bread has been awarded in 2021 as the best in Madrid, if you don’t go soon, it flies.
9 Verónica Street, 9; 27 Magdalena Street
Barbieri Coffee
The Barbieri Coffee is one of those rare examples in which the closure of a flagship business of Madrid is temporary and not definitive.
After more than a hundred years in the neighborhood, this historic café in Lavapiés will close in May 2021. Only nine months later, and with a new owner, the Barbieri opened again with a gastronomic offer that its promoter defines as “quality Italian food at a reasonable price”. The coffee is still one of the main protagonists, in addition to the letter of cocktails.
Ave Maria Street, 45
Where to eat (and drink) in Lavapies
Savas bar
Halfway between the traditional tavern and the most modern cocktail bar, Savas is a meeting point for hedonists and lovers of good drinks. There are few cocktail bars in the neighborhood of Lavapiés, Savas is one of them and there are few cocktail bars with such a competitive price (8,5€ the most expensive cocktail), Savas is one of them. For more Honor: according to the journalist Ángeles Caballero it is the best bar in Madrid.
Sombrerería Street, 3
Pizza Posta
Pizza Posta is the place where they prepare the real pizza. The statement, which seems ironic and presumptuous, is not: posta (in lunfardo -Argentine slang born from the immigrant influence at the end of the 19th century-) means true, good or excellent. And the pizza at this industrial-looking restaurant in the Lavapiés neighborhood is all that.
Amparo Street, 81.
Yeca Estrit Fud
There are some practical things to know before going to Yeca Estrit Fud: the first is that the place is small (literally 4 tables and they do two shifts for lunch and dinner) so it is advisable to book; the second, that the menu is also small (only eight dishes and a dessert); and the third, that you will spend about 20€ per head to eat what in another restaurant they would sell you for a much higher price.
Tribulete Street, 10.
Planet vegan
Visiting Planeta Vegano is one of the things to do in the Lavapiés neighborhood before or after. Ice cream, pastries, animal-free sausage, organic products and food supplements are some of the things you can find in this supermarket that has been fulfilling the vegan dreams of the neighborhood since 2009.
Ave Maria Street, 34
La Nobia
La Nobia, a restaurant where creativity occupies every dish without forgetting the fundamentals: the nods to Madrid’s cuisine. Thus, between the cornerstone of the “castizo” and the more experimental “pincitas cuisine”, the menus of La Nobia are cooked.
Be careful, if you go from Monday to Thursday at noon, you will be able to try their spoon dish off the menu; and if you drop by on Fridays, you will taste their cocido madrileño in three courses. From its menu, we point out some of its must-try dishes, such as the crispy ear on parmentier and salsa brava, the spicy corn gazpacho with roasted tomato pico de gallo and octopus or the roasted leeks with red mojo, smoked cod, pine nuts and black olive earth. Don’t leave without the finishing touch: Andrea Currello’s signature cocktails.
45 Salitre Street, 45
Juan Raro
Everything here is surprising. Juan Raro is so called because his dishes mix the most traditional flavors and elaborations (Juan) with the surprising and updated touch of the most unusual techniques and ingredients (Raro). We recommend making reservations, as their tables are usually very popular, and we also recommend repeating because their menu is constantly evolving.
Dishes such as poached egg with sautéed truffled mushrooms, roasted eggplant with tahini, za’atar and cashew nuts or pastrami brioche with anchovy mayonnaise, sundried tomatoes and pickles are a must.
Miguel Servet Street, 7
Antón Martín Market
The food markets have long ceased to be exclusively a place to buy fruit, meat or vegetables to become one of the centers of quality gastronomy in Madrid. A not inconsiderable merit for a city in which the openings of new restaurants are the order of the day.
While this reinvention can be found in a number of municipal markets, in Antón Martín is where it becomes most evident: Doppelgänger, Yoka Loka, Asian Army… The market’s offer invites you to take a route through its different gastronomic stalls from which it is impossible not to leave satisfied.
Santa Isabel Street, 5
San Fernando Market
One of the most fun markets, one of the liveliest in the Lavapiés neighborhood, where every weekend an incessant tingling of people meet to share a toast and look for the best dishes from the market stalls. You can’t miss a glass of natural wine from Bendito Vinos y Vinilos or the vegetable pâtés from La alpargata vegana tavern or the sushi from Yan Ken Pon (which is also a bookstore).
Embajadores Street, 41.
Viva Chapata
Perhaps one of the best things you can say about a restaurant, aside from the quality of the food, is that it makes you feel at home. And that is something that can be highlighted about Viva Chapata.
Cozy, with generous dishes and all of them vegans would be the following adjectives to add to describe this small tavern in Lavapiés that has been working on sustainable cuisine for almost a quarter of a century. Carrying that name by flag, we can not fail to recommend its “Viva” tortilla ciabatta, accompanied by salmorejo.
Ave María Street, 43
Los Chuchis BAR
Just four tables and a bar in a corner filled to the brim with details of grandmother’s cooking… Spanish and English. The menu at Los Chuchis is like the place: small, cozy and delicious. In the kitchen, a bit of everything: the English touch of chef Scott Preston, lots of spoon dishes and hearty delicacies to share. The menu? It varies with the market and Scott’s appetite. Be prepared for the best.
Amparo Street, 82
Melo’s
With more than 40 years of history in the same corner of Lavapiés, Melo’s is the living example of a lifetime bar, although it was about to stop being one. It was at the end of 2020 when the doors of this gastronomic temple in Madrid remained closed for four months waiting for a messiah willing to save it.
And salvation came from the hand of three neighborhood youths: Rafael Riqueni, Alejandro Martínez and Ignacio Revuelta. They dared to pick up the baton and make it their own, while never losing sight of tradition. Under that promise, they kept intact all the products and recipes of the old Melo’s, so their slippers are still among the best in the world the best tapas in Madrid.
44 Ave María Street, 44
What to do in Lavapiés neighborhood
La Tabacalera
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The Antigua Fábrica de Tabacos de Madrid stopped rolling cigars at the end of the century to dedicate itself to the promotion of art. The rooms of the old factory, very attached to its tobacco past (they still preserve some very curious original elements) are now home to a contemporary art cultural center with daring and undergroundprograms. This is also the headquarters of the Centro Social Autogestionado La Tabacalera. To find it you only have to look for the impressive designs that cover its walls.
Calle de Embajadores, 51
🚧 The center is closed for construction at the date of publication of this article
Cine Doré (headquarters of the Filmoteca Española)
It is one of the most iconic facades in Madrid and one of the few examples of modernist architecture in the capital. With this letter of introduction, it seems logical that what could be considered as the temple of the cinema in Madrid is the Cine Doré, in the Lavapiés district.
It was born in 1912 as “Salon Doré”, that is to say, as a space that hosted various leisure activities. However, the current cinema, designed by Críspulo Moro Cabeza, was built in 1923. Its history is a story of boom and bust: although it was successful in its beginnings and its projections featured live music performed by artists such as María Caballé, Rosita Rodrigo or Eva Stachino, over time it suffered a process of decline.
The Doré Cinema was reinvented as a re-release theater in the 1930s and in its last stage before closing in 1963 it became a neighborhood cinema. After years of neglect, it was acquired by the City Council, restored and in 1989 became the headquarters of the Spanish Film Archive. In addition to screenings, it hosts talks, round tables and other activities.
Santa Isabel Street, 3
Valle-Inclán Theater
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xv3iD33ky0c
Today it has become one of the most important cultural centers of the city, due to its antiquity and because it is considered as the second headquarters of the National Dramatic Center considered as the second headquarters of the Centro Dramático Nacional (National Dramatic Center) the Teatro Valle-Inclán was inaugurated in 1926 as the Sala Olimpia and was originally designed only for showing films.
It was not until 1974 that it opened as a theater, and it was not until 2006 that it became part of the National Drama Center National Dramatic Center. Thanks to this, it underwent a brutal remodeling that turns it into what it is today: one of the best and most modern theaters in the city, where you can enjoy the half of the plays in the Program of the Dramático Nacional are performed in any of its two modern rooms.
Valencia Street, 1
Pavón Theater and Café
At the top of Embajadores Street there is a unique Art Deco building where people come moved by their thirst for culture… Or vermouth. Beneath its peculiar clock tower is the stage of the Pavón Theater where numerous companies have performed since 1925. And at street level, including the terrace, is the mythical Pavón Coffee with a traditional air and unmistakable thanks to its colored glass with posters of another time.
Embajadores Street, 9
Grant Bookstore
The bookstore of choice in the Lavapiés neighborhood is Grant, one of those where time flies while you browse through books and let yourself be advised by charming people. The reference site to find the novel, comic or picture book that will go home with you. The space is welcoming, and the activity is incessant: upon entering it is highly likely to come across the presentation of a new book, an author signing copies, and other types of literary encounters.
21 Miguel Servet Street, 21
Under the volcano
vinyl lovers? obsessed with literature? and music books? Welcome, then, to your particular paradise. Bajoelvolcán is a movie, but also the corner for the crazy collectors in the neighborhood of Lavapiés. Your selection does not disappoint. Ah. By the way. You go down the stairs, there’s still more.
42 Ave Maria St., Ave Maria Street
Los Artistas del Barrio
“The city is a museum where thousands of artists live and create. We want to be your giftshop”. This store, full of Lavapiés charm, has a clear mission to connect local artists with the neighborhood through illustrations, postcards, bags, jewelry and other handcrafted pieces made in Madrid , perfect for decorating the home with an original style and supporting the talent of the neighborhood.
7 Embajadores Street, 7
Sloping streets, people from all over, an alternative air and a cultural proposal difficult to compare, the neighborhood of Lavapiés is one of the most genuine of the city.
This article has been written with fourteen hands by Alberto del Castillo, María F. Carballo, Selene Garcia, Isabel Nieto, Lucía Mos, Carmen Seco y Elena French.